By Mary Jo
A week ago, I told you about the first part of our recent cruise vacation, which described London and the shipboard experience. Today I want to talk about our three ports of call while we were still in European waters.
Originally we were scheduled to stop in Tenerife in the Canary Islands, then Madeira, then Bermuda when the ship was most of the way across the Atlantic. But Bermuda's landing requirements were so complicated and difficult that the cruise line canceled Bermuda and added in Lisbon as the first stop out of Britain.
Lisbon
Great idea! We visited Lisbon once before on our way to cruising the Douro River in Northern Portugal, the cruise that inspired my book Once a Soldier. I remember it as a hilly city of broad boulevards, which were a result of a devastating earthquake in 1755. The destruction was vast, and much of the city was rebuilt according to more modern principles.
So much for the history. I was delighted to be able to book us a tuktuk tour of the older parts of the city! Tuktuks are like glorified electric golf carts and variations are used all over the world, particularly in warmer climates since they aren't usually fully enclosed like automobiles. A tuktuk has no springs, which was pretty noticeable when rumbling over cobblestones! The Mayhem Consultant said he now had a better appreciation of my characters when they spoke of traveling in "well-sprung carriages." <G>
Lisbon is a city of many grand churches, and the oldest of all is the Cathedral of Saint Mary Major. Construction began in the 12th century, which was an era of great cathedral building across Europe. (I'm in front, very small because it's a very large cathedral.)
We traveled up and down hills, admiring more churches and grand vistas. I liked this relaxed hilltop park, where families enjoyed themselves and musicians played in the open air. Tourism professionals know people like to be fed, so everyone on a tuktuk tour was treated to a local specialty, warm custard tarts, served with a small glass of the famous port wine. Absolutely delicious and a lovely goodbye to Lisbon.
Our next stop was Tenerife in the Canary Islands. The Canaries are one of several archipelagos in the Atlantic and are a Spanish autonomous community. They are only 62 miles from Morocco at their closest approach to Africa and the islands are a very popular tourist destination because of the warm climate, beautiful beaches, and the dramatic scenery that comes with the islands' volcanic origins. The total population is about 2.2 million people spread over eight major islands.
We took a coach tour that gave an overview of dramatic hills and a very clean, modern city. Remember what I said about feeding the tourists? We ended in a former religious foundation that is now a restaurant complex and were served coffee and snacks in an open sided pavilion with lovely views, Then it was onward to Madeira.
Madeira
Our last stop was Funchal, the capital of Madeira, a smaller Atlantic archipelago 250 miles north of the Canaries, and with a similar mild climate that appeals to visitors, particularly those from Britain and Germany. Originally uninhabited, it was claimed by Portuguese sailors in 1419 and is considered the first territorial acquisition of the Age of Discovery. Today there are two main islands with a population around a quarter of a million.
I'd hired a private guide, Miguel, and he gave us a marvelous tour of the island. He mentioned that in the Age of Discovery, Portugal was land hungry because so much of the country is mountainous and not very arable. Madeira is also volcanic and mountainous like the Canaries, but the rich volcanic soil is a farmers' paradise that can produce four crops a year.
Having grown up on a farm, I was impressed at how intensely planted much of the island was. It seemed like every cultivatable inch of land supported various crops. Look at how closely buildings and crops are set together. This banana plant was right on the roadside. Miguel said that when the purple blossom on the bottom fell off, the bananas were ready to be harvested. Very convenient!
We saw a harbor with fishing boats, a cable rise rising up a steep cliff, and because we were in a four wheel drive vehicle, we went four-wheeling through the prehistoric laurel forest high in the mountains, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was misty, lovely and very Middle Earthish up there.
Then, because Madeira is a Portuguese autonomous territory, we were again treated to a pair of those delicious custard tarts!
Deadline
Along with the lovely tourism, I had a work deadline, which was to go over the page proofs of Lady of Fortune, a very early book of mine that I polished up and Kensington is reissuing. Going over page proofs is a matter of looking for typos, punctuation errors, or other errors that might have been missed. Unessential changes are NOT encouraged!
It's not a difficult process, but it does take time. Usually I would have received proofs earlier, but we all know what the last two years have been like. This lot were sprung on me just before we left for London on holiday. The book will be released on February 21st so the production schedule was tight!
After a lot to-ing and fro-ing between me and the production editor over how to get the proofs in on time, I took a track changes version of the document on my laptop, and between custard tarts, I carefully went over the proofs which were due October 27th. More importantly, I needed to be able to email the document to New York while we were in European waters with decent WiFi.
Luckily I was successful and mailed the manuscript off from Tenerife, because when we got into the open ocean, wifi was minimal to non-existent. So with proofs delivered, we were free to read, laze and eat our way across the Atlantic Ocean. Travel is wonderful--and so is going home!
Have you traveled to any of these three destinations? Do you want to, or are there other destinations in that part of the world you'd like to visit?
Mary Jo, remembering the custards with great fondness
What a wonderful trip, Mary Jo. A cruise to the Canaries and Madeira (plus Barcelona and London) was my last trip before I hung up my sunhat for good. Very interesting places to explore. Some fun bits:
- "Canary" refers to dogs (canis) rather than birds. I've forgotten why, but presumably the first settlers from Europe were met by canines who had preceded them.
- There are active volcanoes and hot spots. Fortunately, I was there before the biggest one erupted later that year.
- Also, as we rode a tour bus that wiggled its way up a mountain and back down again, our guide joked (?) that the driver had just gotten his license. The week after I got home, one of those buses fell off the mountain, with predictable results. I had to wonder …
- It was people who moved on from the Canary Islands who settled Cuba.
- The islands are all desert, but in different formations. Some are sandy, others black volcanic rock, but the plants reminded me of my desert home in Arizona, especially the cacti and wildflowers.
- I got to ride a camel, one of the last things on my bucket list. The camel behind put its head over my shoulder and grinned, like, "Give us a kiss, girlie?"
Nice that you got your proofreading done. I think we all appreciate attention to those details. A deadline, decent wifi, and a quiet cabin—what more could you ask for!
Posted by: Mary M. | Friday, November 18, 2022 at 06:16 AM
Thank you so much for this post and the wonderful descriptions of your trips and stops and experiences. You have shared much with us and I appreciate your kindness. Everyone Take care and stay warm.
Posted by: Annette N | Friday, November 18, 2022 at 10:01 AM
Mary M, your last cruise sounds lovely! I've been to the other destinations, but no Barcelona, which sounds wonderful from all I've heard. Love the camel story. *G*
Luckily, we weren't on a coach going up twisty roads. Modern freeways and smooth city streets instead! I'd like to return to the Canaries--there's so much we didn't see.
As for the proof reading--early on in my writing career, I realized that there will ALWAYS be mistakes--but I do my best to make sure that there will be as few as possible!
Posted by: Mary Jo Putney | Friday, November 18, 2022 at 12:44 PM
You're welcome, Annette. I love armchair travel myself so I like to offer it when I can.
Take care and I hope you have a lovely holiday.
Posted by: Mary Jo Putney | Friday, November 18, 2022 at 12:45 PM
Thank you for the great armchair tour. The Canaries and Madiera sound wonderful. I had no idea the population of the Canary Islands was so large. I will now add them to my bucket list, along with Portugal. My husband worked on a freighter at one point in his youth, and when his ship once had engine trouble, they were docked in Lisbon for several weeks. He really enjoyed the free vacation, he fondly recalls the wonderful and inexpensive food and wine they enjoyed every night!
Posted by: Karin | Friday, November 18, 2022 at 03:59 PM
Karin, Lisbon would be a wonderful place to be held up for several weeks! Your husband needs to take you there. *G*
Posted by: Mary Jo Putney | Friday, November 18, 2022 at 05:35 PM
Thank you for a lovely post, Mary Jo; I am glad that you and the Mayhem Consultant had a wonderful time. And now I'd like to sample a custard tart!
Have you mentioned how the Mayhem Consultant came by his moniker?
Posted by: Kareni | Friday, November 18, 2022 at 07:15 PM
Kareni, the Mayhem Consultant is interested in all kinds of military history, esp. WWII, and weaponry and explosives. He's helped me and some of my friends with blowing up bridges in the 18th century, farmhouses in the civil war, and NOT blowing up British Embassy during the Paris Peace Conference of 1815. So yes, he actually does consult about mayhem.*G*
Posted by: Mary Jo Putney | Saturday, November 19, 2022 at 08:11 AM
Clearly a good man to have on hand, Mary Jo! Thank you for the explanation.
Posted by: Kareni | Saturday, November 19, 2022 at 02:14 PM
Kareni, you're welcome. No one ever asked for an explanation before. *G*
Posted by: Mary Jo Putney | Saturday, November 19, 2022 at 07:01 PM
You would ADORE Barcelona, Mary Jo. And if you go to the Canaries again, the toboggan ride (down a paved street) is not to be missed.
Posted by: Mary M. | Sunday, November 20, 2022 at 01:38 AM
How nice that you have an "in house" consultant! Especially one who can explain in layman's terms how to achieve the mayhem you need to create in your books.
All your little side trips sound like they were ton's of fun....
And yes....good springs are a must. I'm always greatly appreciative when I get back on pavement after going miles and miles on bumpy, lumpy back roads.
Posted by: Vicki L | Sunday, November 20, 2022 at 11:07 AM
That is funny! I am glad to have been first.
Posted by: Kareni | Sunday, November 20, 2022 at 04:08 PM
A TOBOGGAN ride down a paved street? I'm sorry I missed that!
Posted by: Mary Jo Putney | Sunday, November 20, 2022 at 07:13 PM
Kareni, I'm glad you asked!
Posted by: Mary Jo Putney | Sunday, November 20, 2022 at 07:15 PM
Vicki--me too! Cobblestone streets are picturesque, but NOT easy travel!
Posted by: Mary Jo Putney | Sunday, November 20, 2022 at 07:16 PM