The Grand Tour

Andrea here, thinking about the joys of traveling, and how much I have missed the heady experience of of being inspired by visiting new places—or cherished favorite spots that hold a place in my heart. As the world continues to open up, it feels like it’s possible to venture far from home, and I'm busy plotting where to go . . .

As you’ve probably noted, a number of the Wenches have been traveling hither and yon. Research beckons! (That’s always a good excuse for us to pack our bags!) But along with exploring specific sites for our books, it's also just  good to get the general creative juices flowing by being in a foreign place and seeing the world from a different perspective.

And human nature being human nature, this desire to experience the world beyond one’s own familiar turf is nothing new in history. In the Georgian and Regency era, the "Grand Tour" was a rite of passage for the beau monde.

The term “Grand Tour” refers to the trip through the Continent made by rich young British gentlemen in order to acquire some polish. The ritual had a well-established route that was followed by many of the travelers. The first stop was Paris, where the young men were expected to learn about the social graces—dancing, fencing, and how to dress fashionably, as well as the art of conversation and an appreciation of the theatre. From there, they would head south, usually to Nimes, where they would get their first exposure to the classical Roman ruins of the Mediterranean area. From there, they often headed across the Alps and stopped in Geneva before heading south into the Italian peninsula.

Rome were the ultimate destination (with Florence and Naples—especially at Carnival time—also important stops.) It was here that the classical education that these young gentlemen studied at Eton, Harrow, Oxford and Cambridge was meant to come alive. But how, you might wonder, did these callow youths appreciate all the culture and history surrounding them? An excellent question! And that brings us to another interesting detail of the Grand Tour.

Traveling with a tutor was considered part of the ritual. Often these men were teachers the young gentlemen had become acquainted with during their university studies, but a few of them were actually professional tutors, who studied specifically to lead the educational trip. Through previous travels, they often had well-established connections in Rome with artists and dealers. This was important because collecting was a large part of the Tour’s purpose. But more on that in a moment.

Letters and diaries show that relationship between a tutor and his protégé was far from a simple teacher-student relationship. The young man’s father expected the tutor to control the finances and the wilder impulses of his son. And yet, the two men were travel companions for a lengthy period of time, and were together, as we say today, 24/7, so they often developed a strong friendship. (Many Grand Tour tutors went on to become influential men in their own right—government ambassadors, playwrights to name just a few—because of the bonds they had developed with their aristocratic pupils.)

However the tutor’s official role was to show his pupil the important classical sites and through these travels to educate him to appreciate the art and culture of classical antiquity. And in doing so, he often shaped that young gentleman’s taste in art. A notable example of pupil/tutor is Francis Basset, who at age 12 came into great wealth on inheriting copper and tin mines in southern England. After attending Harrow and Cambridge, he hired William Sands to guide him on his Tour.

Sands was a professional tutor with many useful connections in Rome, and through his journals we have learned many interesting details of the Grand Tour. There was a well-established English community in the Eternal City, and on arrival, Grand Tour travelers would stay in this enclave. There, they would usually engage the services of resident agent/dealers—James Byres and Thomas Jenkins were the two most prominent—to help arrange access to artist studios and to help with the purchases of antiquities. Who the tutor or agent knew often helped shape the taste of the pupil. For example, Sands was good friends with the noted Italian artist Giovanni Piranesi, who was known for his dramatic etchings of classical subjects. So it’s no surprise that Basset collected numerous prints by Piranesi.

A full length portrait of Basset by the painter Pompeo Batoni is a wonderful example of yet another important cultural tradition of the time—having a formal Grand Tour portrait painted to display at home. There was a very specific symbolism to these portraits—the gentlemen are usually shown holding a map of Rome, which indicated that they had visited the city. Fragments of ruins are meant to show their familiarity with classical art, and lastly, the scenic views of important buildings in the background serve to show how well-traveled they were.

These portraits were intended to be hung in a prominent place back home and their purpose was not only to be a “travel snapshot” for the men shown, but also to trumpet to viewers that the subject of the portrait was a sophisticated, well-traveled, well-cultured individual.

I hope you enjoyed this quick dash through the Grand Tour. Now, let’s play collector too! If you could choose any piece of art from Rome to bring home, what would your heart desire? I would have asked an agent to find me a chalk drawing done by Michelangelo or DaVinci. Or perhaps some Roman coins, or . . . Sigh—It’s so hard to choose! Or another question is, if not Rome, what city of wonderful cultural treasures would you choose to visit on your Grand Tour?

Comments

[Mary Jo Putney]

Thanks, Andrea! My grand tour involved hostels and a lot of rumpled clothing, but at least these days travel isn't limited to just rich young guys!

[Lil Marek]

My Grand Tour, which will take place in the 18th century, will definitely include fairly lengthy residence in Venice, where I will rent a palazzo, travel about by gondola (with a mask an domino for evenings on the town), and in my spare time pick up a few Canalettos. And if there are any Bellinis still around, those as well. :-)

[Kareni]

There are certainly peach bellinis to be found, Lil!

[Kareni]

Thanks for a wonderful post, Andrea! My mother took my sister and me to Rome when we were about ten and twelve. We saw sights inclusive the Vatican and the catacombs but no artist studios! (Is there any art that generates a never-ending supply of gelato?)

[Kareni]

Hmm, inclusive should have been including!

[Lil Marek]

I'll drink to that, Kareni!

[Janet Murdoch]

I would really want to include Barcelona! Rome was awesome - as was Naples (people are intimidatingly well dressed, though!) - but Barcelona is the one calling me. I will definitely be going again!

[Andrea Penrose]

Ha, ha, so true!Yes, I tend to travel and casual as well. No hired tutor, no "selfies" painted in the ruins of Rome!

[Andrea Penrose]

I am sure a bellini can be made, Lil! You've created a dream trip. I'm coming with you!

[Andrea Penrose]

Great choice, Janet. Barcelona is such an interesting place. Great history, and a culture that enjoys life—great food, great wine and conversation. A bit more laid- back than Rome.

[Andrea Penrose]

Gelato is an art form in itself!

What a great experience to have had as a child. I would love to go back to Rome just to visit the Vatican Library, which I hear is absolutely amazing. There likely still undiscovered treasures hidden in the archives.

[Christina Courtenay]

I still haven’t been to Rome but hopefully one day! I’d love a Da Vinci for sure, or maybe a Canaletto?

[Patricia Franzino]

I would visit Greece and bring back a small sculpture that would be easy to carry.

[Binnie Syril Braunstein]

It may not seem exotic as exploring Rome, but I would like to explore more of England/the UK. I've been to London, Oxford, Dorchester, Cornwall and York. But there's so much more. I'd also love to visit Scotland, Ireland and Wales. Just sayin'. My souvenirs included a shilling a Blackwells bookseller gifted me, and 7 bone China egg cups. Ready to go back any time.

[Andrea Penrose]

Greece is a lovely choice, Patricia. But don't carry off a sculpture from the Parthanon, like Lord Elgin!

[Andrea Penrose]

So true, Binnie, there is SO many wonderful places to explore in the UK. The egg cups are SUCH a quintessentially British souvenir. What a good choice ! I think they are pretty much impossible to find in a store here in the U.S. (Though I'm sure they are easy to order online.)

[Karin]

I did pick up a lovely DaVinci drawing in Italy( a print, naturally!) and gave it to my aunt. She still has it hanging on her wall, since 1977!
But since I was on a budget I could only covet all the beautiful gold jewelry in Florence. I'd love to go back there with some money, and shop for jewelry!

[Constance]

Florence and Venice would have been my choices in the Regency, and would still be my choices today. And I would have been sending back home from each city trunks full of the beautiful fabrics made in each - brocades, damasks, embroidered silks. There would be a Canaletto wrapped in one of those bolts of fabric for sure, and perhaps an original antique piece of music from Vivaldi or Albinoni. I have a small patchwork cushion from Bevilacqua in Venice, made in 2005 from fabrics woven on 17th century looms, which I treasure as if it were a great work of art! And perhaps, if I went to Venice today, I’d have to bring home one of the glasses from which Lil and Kareni and I drank Bellinis at Harry’s, overlooking the Grand Canal!

[Jeanne Behnke]

This was a fun post Andrea! Apparently we are all going on Lil's tour!!

[Annette N]

Thanks so much for the post and the pictures and of course the ideas.
Each of you have given me an opportunity to travel to wonderful places in my head.

[Pat Dupuy]

I think the Roman mosaics are exquisite! Maybe I could bring back an artist to make one for me. And a man to build the bath house the mosaics would go in. And some attendants to make sure I'm relaxing in the correct Roman manner. Ha!

[Kareni]

Cheers, Constance!

[Constance]

Saluti, Kareni!

[Teresa Broderick]

I don't know much about art. I just know paintings I like. Constable is one of my favourites. I also love Monarch of the Glen by Landseer and I have a real soft spot for Starry Starry Nigh
Andrea I just finished an ARC of your latest Wrexford and Sloane. WOW!! I loved it.
A lovely post.

[Susie Felber]

I love this post! A great primer and am going to share with my kids. My mother, Edith Layton, collected grand tour mosaics. I will share this with her fans!

[Andrea Penrose]

So glad you are enjoying"touring the world with us, Annette!

[Andrea Penrose]

Ha, ha! THat's not much to ask for!

Mosiaics really are fabulous!

[Andrea Penrose]

Teresa, you have WONDERFUL taste in art. Constable's landscapes are lovely! And Starry Night is one of my favorites!

Thanks so much for the kind words on my book! I'm so glad that you enjoyed it!

[Andrea Penrose]

SO glad you enjoyed the post. I hadn't known that Edith was so interested in the Grand Tour. How cool!

[Andrea Penrose]

Yes!

[Andrea Penrose]

Oooo. Florentine gold. That would be a treasure, indeed! I'm coming with you to shop!

[Andrea Penrose]

Fabrics! What a great choice! Italy makes such exquisite textiles. (Io love the idea of wrapping a few painted masterpieces in the cloth for the trip home!)

I'll join you in drinking Bellinis at Harry's!