Iceland – In the Footsteps of the Vikings (Part I)

Christina here. When I planned out my current Viking time travel series a couple of years ago, it seemed like a great idea to have one of them set in Iceland. This massive island in the North Atlantic was more or less empty before the Vikings arrived to settle there around 860-870 AD. As my story took place in 875 AD, it made sense to have my characters be part of those first groups of settlers.

Of course, this would necessitate a research trip to Iceland – I’d wanted to visit for a long time so great excuse, right? Then Covid happened. For 18 months I waited to see if travelling would be possible again, and in the meantime, I had to work on my story using only information gleaned from books, travel blogs and other peoples’ remembrances. Definitely not ideal!

By early June this year, I had less than a month to finalise the edits for the book (TEMPTED BY THE RUNES) when at last the borders opened and travel was allowed! I jumped at the chance and with my husband quickly organised a trip which, despite hassle with paperwork and tests, turned out to be magical, so I thought I’d tell you about our journey. Here’s the first part:-

The main Icelandic airport, Keflavik, is about an hour’s drive away from the capital Reykjavik. First impressions of Iceland were of vast skies and a strange, flat and rather barren landscape with volcanic rock covered in moss, but with mountains in the middle. One of them, Fagradalshraun, recently erupted, but by the time we were there, all you could see was a cloud of smoke in the distance.

You can easily get around the centre of Reykjavik on foot, and we spent the first day sight-seeing, taking in as many museums as possible. The first was the Settlement Museum, which houses the actual remains of a Viking longhouse dug up underneath the building. Visitors go down into the basement to see it and there are displays describing how it would have looked back in 870 AD - fascinating! Originally, it would have been built of turf and was big enough to house at least 10 people. The archaeologists think it might have belonged to one of the first Viking settlers, Ingólfur Arnarsson, and his wife Hallveig, and there was lots of information, as well as objects found around the site. Reykjavik had a good natural harbour, great conditions for cultivating grain crops and plenty of other natural resources so was an ideal place to settle.

The second museum we visited was the National Museum of Iceland, which traces the country’s history from those first settlers to the present. There were some very interesting artefacts, including an original manuscript of the Norse sagas, and old textiles like the glove in this photo and a wicked looking fishfork for use when fishing for salmon in the rivers.

Finally, we went to a museum filled with life size wax dolls where you listened to the story of the settlers and sagas while walking around. It was great for me as it helped me to visualise how everything would have looked at the time of the Vikings.

The town of Reykjavik itself is a mixture of quaint multi-coloured clapboard houses and ultra-modern buildings. No skyscrapers though. It all looked very similar to little Swedish towns but with a distinctly Icelandic twist. There was a port and you could look across the bay to the mountains on the other side, which were covered in mist. Everyone we met was very helpful and friendly, and they all spoke excellent English. The weather, however, wasn’t quite so nice – average temperature while we were there (beginning of June) was 9 degrees Celsius, and it was incredibly windy most days. We did have one gorgeous day though (at a balmy 13 degrees) when the sun felt lovely and hot!

The following day we headed north and out into the countryside. The population of Iceland is only about 350,000, so it’s not a crowded place. There is only one main road which encircles the island, and it has just the one lane in most places. Sometimes sheep wander across it, so you have to keep an eye out – they obviously have the right of way and seemed totally unconcerned. Dark hills brooded over flatlands near the sea. Their lower slopes were covered in pale green moss or grass and most had low cloud or mist hanging over them, with the odd patch of snow here and there high up. Because the inland glaciers were melting, fast flowing rivers cut grooves through the landscape and there were little waterfalls everywhere flowing down the mountainsides – a beautiful sight!

We drove to a part of the island called Dalasýsla. The scenery around there was just stunning, and reminded me strongly of the Scottish Highlands. Waterfalls again, steep mountain sides, moss and scree. Unbelievable views all along!

In Haukadalur near a lake – Haukadalsvatn – we found a reconstructed turf longhouse called Eiriksstaðir. It is built on the site where Eirik the Red actually lived in the 10^th century (he was the father of Leif Eiriksson, the Viking who discovered America). This sort of house was exactly the kind my characters would live in, and therefore seeing this place was the highlight of the trip for me. I was able to sit inside and soak up the atmosphere so that I could really get a feel for what it was like to live there.

Turf houses are curious buildings – humpbacked and a bit like little hillocks in the landscape. The roof and sides are covered in grass, although here and there you can glimpse the actual pieces of turf and see the construction. The walls are thick – usually two layers of turf with soil or sand in between – and built around a timber frame, and with a large hearth in the centre of the earth floor. The inhabitants would have been very warm and cosy in there, although cramped as they had to spend most of the winter indoors. Around the walls were benches to sit and sleep on, with straw and lots of furs to make them more comfortable.

A kind guide told us all about it and showed us weapons, utensils, materials and Viking ice skates – a pair of cow bones to strap to your shoes – and told us stories about the former inhabitants. All grist for a writer’s mill. I was able to put my hands on the turf walls to feel how soft and dry they were, if a bit dusty, and to notice that the house wasn’t damp. Eirik himself eventually left and discovered Greenland, where he settled. I couldn’t imagine wanting to leave that cosy little house and travel so far!

Being a volcanic island, Iceland is full of hot springs bubbling out of the ground. The characters in my book have a spring near their settlement, so I was on a mission to find one. I had hoped to actually bathe in it, but when we finally tracked one down there were signs saying it was currently closed to the public. For the sake of research, I went to have a quick look anyway (I know, naughty of me but necessary!), and at least I was able to take some photos and stick my hand in to check the temperature. It was hot, but not to the point of pain. I wish I could have gone in, but on the other hand, undressing in that arctic wind would not have been particularly nice!

The Snaefellsnes peninsula is a national park with a glacier in the middle – Snaefellsjökull – which was fascinating. It was shrouded in mists and low cloud, the top white with snow. We drove all the way around, stopping at Arnarstapi – a little fishing village – to see nesting sea birds down by the cliffs. Arctic tern, seagulls, eider ducks and puffins, although we didn’t spot any of the latter. There used to be great auks too, a large flightless bird about 70 cm in length and weighing about 5 kg. Unfortunately it was hunted for its meat and was easy prey so numbers dropped fast until it became extinct in 1844 – very sad. Up on the cliffs it was extremely windy, so much so that my hair could have doubled as one of those birds’ nests! Looking out to sea, you could see for miles and it was strange to think that the next landmass in that direction was Greenland.

We concluded the day with a visit to yet another settlement museum, this time in the little town of Borgarnes. The amazingly kind people there opened it just for us, and then they let us taste whey which you can apparently buy in Icelandic supermarkets. Whey was used by Vikings as a preservative – you can safely keep a haggis in it for up to a year for example – but they also drank it so I was very curious to try it for myself. It was a bit weird, but not unpleasant. Afterwards, we stayed in a hotel where the hot water came directly from hot springs in the ground which meant the shower smelled like rotten eggs! It didn’t leave a smell on the skin though so it was fine. The cold water also from a spring and was delicious everywhere we went!

To be continued …

Have you ever been to Iceland? If not, would you like to go?

Comments

[Mary M.]

I had a bucket-list item for Iceland a few years ago, but my travel buddies said, "Whatttt??? You HATE the cold." Sadly, true. Had to give it up. I was intrigued by the Northern Lights and soaking in hot springs, as well as an anatomical museum I thought would have been interesting (but they didn't—cue sounds of eyebrows crackling and jaws dropping). Too late now anyway, in fact I equally hate the heat of off-season traveling anywhere warm, too. It's all arm-chair for me these days. But glad you went, Christina. Thanks for tis post, and the one to come.

[Christina Courtenay]

Thank you Mary, I'm glad you enjoyed the armchair travelling! It was definitely colder than I'd thought, but with the right clothing it was fine. I might have to go back in winter time as I didn't get to see the Northern Lights nor go in a hot spring.

I'm like you, don't enjoy really hot weather either!

[Karin]

Back when I did my post-college European tour, Icelandic Air was known as the bargain airline, and a popular choice for backpackers. They do a stopover at Keflavik airport, so I had a chance to walk outside. As you said, it's rather flat and barren. So although I have set foot in Iceland, it doesn't really count as a visit.

[Christina Courtenay]

It does seem to be a convenient place to stop off in between the continents - glad you got to see a little bit of it anyway! Although I must say that part was one of the least pretty ones but still, fascinating!

[Sue McCormick]

As I continue to say, my traveling days are over. I am SO glad to have had this virtual tour.

My father's home town in north-eastern Indiana has water supplied from artesian wells. The water is so full of iron it runs red from the faucet and it has a strong flavor of sulfur, so I can imagine the taste of the spring water. (Makes great tea!)

[Donna H.]

Oh Christina, you have inspired me! Would love to go to Iceland and Greenland too for that matter. The part of Canada in which I live gets pretty cold every winter so I am not daunted by that aspect. But I do not think I would want to be there in January!! Thanks for the post. I enjoyed it very much.

[Christina Courtenay]

Thank you Sue, so glad you liked it! I love spring water and it's amazing when it just bubbles out of the ground like that! The drinking water in Iceland tasted so good, I'm really missing it as ours doesn't. They are very lucky!

[Christina Courtenay]

Thank you Donna! No, January might be a bit extreme but I suppose if you're dressed appropriately it would be OK. I'd love to go to Greenland too, and Canada!

[Teresa Broderick]

I'm not a traveller at all but if I was Iceland is a place I would enjoy seeing. I don't like the heat at all. My brother was on a cruise some years ago and had a stop in Iceland. He loved it!! Great post Christina.

[Christina Courtenay]

Thank you Teresa! I definitely wish I was back there right now as we're having a heatwave here in the UK - I much prefer the cold as well!

[Quantum]

Very interesting to see the lengths that authors will go in the name of research ... vital of course for achieving that authentic feel.
I think you next need to arrange a trip in a Viking longship on a rough sea to feel the icy spray and observe the navigation skills. Afraid my thirst for adventure is largely quenched .... love reading about your trips though. I think the Northern lights, hot springs and glaciers would be the main attractions for me in Iceland.

[Quantum]

https://www.vikingeskibsmuseet.dk/en/visit-the-museum/activities/boat-trips

[Christina Courtenay]

Thank you Quantum, so pleased you enjoyed the post! I have been on one of the longships that sail round Roskilde harbour and it was amazing - don't think I'd like to go out on the open sea though. Although the ride was smooth, I'm not a fan of boats/ships in general as I get very seasick. Can't imagine I'd survive a journey across the Atlantic without turning green! In Iceland there was another ship museum with lots of details - I'll be talking about that in Part II of this travel blog.

[Kareni]

Thank you, Christina, for sharing your Iceland experiences with us. I've never been to Iceland, but it looks like a place I'd enjoy visiting.

[Christina Courtenay]

Thanks Kareni, I'm glad you enjoyed it! Iceland is definitely unique and well worth a visit.

[Mary Jo Putney]

What a FABULOUS research journey, Christina! Book research can cover quite a lot, but it's not the same as going into a turf house and smelling the smoke.

I've had several brief visits to Iceland. THe longest was one we had an Icelandair misconnect of a couple of days when flying home from Glasgow. The Icelandair rep took a look at the itinerary and decided that the airline owed us two nights in one of the hotels they owned. It was a lovely junior suite with a great view of Reykjavik. The next day we rented a car and started driving around the great circle route. It was a wonderful day. We need to go back!

[Christina Courtenay]

Thank you Mary Jo! I'm so glad you got to spend some time there - hope you can go back and see the rest one day!

[Andrea Penrose]

Fascinating. Christina! I would love to visit! And what a wonderful opportunity for research. I love the turf house—there's nothing like actually walking into an historic place and experiencing what your characters would see, smell and touch. Really wonderful!

I would have loved to try the hots springs, too! But the idea of undressing in an arctic wind gives me pause for thought!

[Christina Courtenay]

Thank you Andrea! Yes, actually visiting things like that turf house is invaluable - you notice things you just can't get from just reading about it. As for the hot springs, I think it would be worth it but it was extremely chilly in the air!