Ireland Revisited

The Emerald Isle: Another classic travel blog

 by Mary Jo

Ironically, yesterday the Mayhem Consultant and I returned from our first vacation in a year and a half: a cruise of the Chesapeake Bay.  But I didn't have the time to write a proper blog, so I'm recycling an older blog about a week we spent in Ireland, because who doesn't want to visit Ireland???

The Mayhem Consultant and I sailed from New York to Southampton on the Queen Mary 2 purely to enjoy the leisure and romance of a transatlantic crossing.  But once we reached England, we certainly weren’t going to waste being in Europe! 

We’d vaguely planned to go to Ireland some day.  I’d spent a week there many, many years ago when I was living in England, and the MC had never visited Ireland at all.  Clearly, it was time. <G> 

Neither the MC nor I have any known Irish blood, but no matter.  We loved Ireland for its beauty, wonderful friendly people, and deep sense of history. Rather than ramble on indefinitely, here’s a few bits and pieces, with a modest selection of pictures.  (Ireland is a very photogenic country!):

Travel the easy way:

We decided to try something new: instead of hiring a car ourselves, we’d hire a car with a driver/guide to take us around.  No stress, and a driver who not only knew the fun, off the beaten track places, but could tell us the history.  We worked through an agency recommended by a friend of a friend, and the Ireland Chauffeur Travel company turned out to be a good pick.  We worked out an itinerary, rooms were booked, and it worked as smoothly as silk. 

We were particularly lucky with our guide, John Daly, Besides being capable, welcoming, and knowledgeable, he’was a certified tour guide with a special expertise in Irish history.  Hog heaven for a historical novelist! 

 by Mary Jo

Ironically, yesterday the Mayhem Consultant and I returned from our first vacation in a year and a half: a cruise of the Chesapeake Bay.  But I didn't have the time to write a proper blog, so I'm recycling an older blog about a week we spent in Ireland, because who doesn't want to visit Ireland???

The Mayhem Consultant and I sailed from New York to Southampton on the Queen Mary 2 purely to enjoy the leisure and romance of a transatlantic crossing.  But once we reached England, we certainly weren’t going to waste being in Europe! 

We’d vaguely planned to go to Ireland some day.  I’d spent a week there many, many years ago when I was living in England, and the MC had never visited Ireland at all.  Clearly, it was time. <G> 

Neither the MC nor I have any known Irish blood, but no matter.  We loved Ireland for its beauty, wonderful friendly people, and deep sense of history. Rather than ramble on indefinitely, here’s a few bits and pieces, with a modest selection of pictures.  (Ireland is a very photogenic country!):

Travel the easy way:

We decided to try something new: instead of hiring a car ourselves, we’d hire a car with a driver/guide to take us around.  No stress, and a driver who not only knew the fun, off the beaten track places, but could tell us the history.  We worked through an agency recommended by a friend of a friend, and the Ireland Chauffeur Travel company turned out to be a good pick.  We worked out an itinerary, rooms were booked, and it worked as smoothly as silk. 

We were particularly lucky with our guide, John Daly, Besides being capable, welcoming, and knowledgeable, he’was a certified tour guide with a special expertise in Irish history.  Hog heaven for a historical novelist! 

Because I was writing a book, Sometimes a Rogue, that as a section set in Ireland, I was particularly keen to see the southeast and Kinsale in particular.  Good choice.  Kinsale is a lovely little town with a small harbor perfect for my needs, lots of good B&Bs and restaurants, a totally cool fort on the edge of town, and the best fish and chips I've ever had. 

The MC also had a special request: as a native Baltimorean, he wanted to visit the original Irish town of Baltimore.  We did.  It was small. <G> (Above is an image of St. Bridget's Well, an ancient holy well turned Christian.  But it's not near Baltimore.)

Bed & Breakfast:

Most nights we stayed in B&Bs, which I love for their friendliness and quirky individuality, not to mention the great breakfasts.  The people of the British Isles really  know how to do a proper breakfast, which generally includes fruit, cereal, eggs, several kinds of pig meat, and such accessories at grilled tomatoes, mushrooms, toast, marmalade, maybe fried bread or even baked beans.  There are regional variations among the breakfasts, but eggs, meat, and toast are pretty universal.  Even Northern Ireland, part of the United Kingdom, has its Ulster Fry. 

No guest has to eat more than they want, of course, but for sure no one leaves hungry.  The Irish variation often includes black and white pudding—a form of blood pudding.  I tried it my first morning in the spirit of experimentation, but didn’t get very far.  One B&B owner said they no longer offered it for breakfast because only the Irish would eat it. <g>

But one thing we were served everywhere in Ireland and loved was the marvelous Irish brown soda bread.  It’s crumbly and tasty and goes well with breakfast, lunch, dinner, and any other time you’re in the mood.  I have become one of the many Americans who would love to be able to duplicate it at home, but my research indicates that Irish whole meal flour is needed, and it’s a low gluten kind of “soft” flour that grows naturally in Ireland.  Good natural buttermilk is needed, too, not anything heavily processed.  I am on the hunt for the proper ingredients.  I am in danger of becoming obsessive. <G>

Irish Food:

The British Isles in general have had an unenviable reputation for the quality of the food, but that has changed a lot in recent years. Ireland is a great country for produce and dairy, and restaurants have taken enthusiastically to locavore cooking.  Most of the places where we ate were willing to give you the name of the chicken who laid your breakfast egg. (I exaggerate only slightly. <g>) 

 

Lots of fresh fish and lovely little salads and potatoes.  (I may not be Irish, but I do love potatoes.) 

Memories in Stone:

In choosing pictures for this blog, I tried to avoid choosing too many images of rocky things.  It was hard because Ireland has so many old castles, churches, forts, famine houses, and more.  Not to mention the natural rock. 

We skipped the beautiful Ring of Kerry, a famous scenic drive, which meant many coaches on the same road.  Instead, we opted for the quieter Dingle Peninsula, which has been inhabited since the Iron Age.  John Daly pointed out “famine houses:” tiny stone houses that held too many people who had to survive on too little land.  (Right)

We also visited a small but intact Iron Age fort.  (Above)

The famous Cliffs of Moher (pronounced “More”) tower up to 700 feet in the air and are a grand sight.  We visited them by boat on a sunny afternoon, which was great fun, since the boat had occasional impulses to imitate a bucking bronco.  <g>  But more impressive was seeing them the next day from above in the haunting mists. 

“You must stay in a Castle!”

It was our Wench Anne Gracie who said that if we were to visit Ireland, we must spend a night in a castle.  Ever agreeable, I told the agency to find us one, and they booked us into the magnificent Ashford Castle.  It turned out to be a historical romance fan's dream.  <g>

The oldest part is Norman and dates back to the 13th century.  The condition was bad in the 19th century when the Guinness brewing family bought it and spent a million pounds restoring and adding to the castle.  (And that was when a million pounds really MEANT something!)

Now it’s owned by a luxury hotel group, and it was fabulous.  By luck, we were upgraded to a suite that was remarkably like what one of my Regency heroines might live in, only with electricity.

Most of the guests were average Americans like us who were enjoying the fantasy of living like lords and ladies.  I want to go back and do one of their falconry sessions.

Goodbye to all that

One of my favorite sites was these high crosses.  Ancient monuments to faith, the rich carving can include bible tales, and even carved cats. 

When John Daly left us at a Dublin airport hotel so we could fly home the next day, a rainbow appeared as we were going in.  Does that look like a good omen for returning to Ireland?  I’m taking it as such!

Have you been to Ireland?  Would you like to go?  Inspired by Scotland's "Homecoming" celebration, which invited people from around the world with Scottish blood to return, in 2013 Ireland was hosting "The Gathering," an open invitation for members of the world wide Irish diaspora to return (and spend money.) It's a good excuse for a visit! 

In the meantime—does anyone know how to make great Irish brown soda bread on this side of the Atlantic? 

Mary Jo's "you will return" rainbow

 

 

 

 

Comments

[Sue McCormick]

Thank you for this armchair voyage. I have enjoyed it very much. I have always wished to go to Ireland; so I am very happy that you took me there.

[Maryellen Webber]

I'd love to visit Ireland. Thank you for your post, I think having a tour guide/driver is an excellent way to travel. I wouldn't trust my husband to drive on the opposite side of the road safely! Staying in a castle sounds wonderful, especially with all the comforts of a hotel. Thanks Mary Jo!

[Mary T]

Most of my ancestors came from Ireland, so it was a place I have always wanted to visit. But I never made it there during my traveling years, so I too am grateful for the armchair tour. I love soda bread, but only have it once a year (around St Pats day). And it is "store bought" so I'm sure it is not as good as fresh baked.

Thanks Mary Jo.

[Alison Y]

Sorry, Mary Jo, I can't help you with the Irish brown soda bread.

But I have been to Ireland a few times. The first time we rented a car and drove, in a large circle, around the country. The Irish claim there are 40 shades of green there, but it seemed to me there were more. The vistas are beautiful and I ate up the history. Mostly, I fell in love with the Irish people, and though I have no Irish blood in me, I want to claim them.

The last time I was there was a few years ago. We took a trip to Normandy and when planning the flights, found that it was more expensive to fly round-trip to Paris than it was to fly direct to Paris and on the way back to make a stop-over in Dublin! Didn't need to think twice. The people, the pubs, the beer in one of my favorite cities, who would pass that up?

[Annette N]

Have never had the joy of traveling to Ireland. I have Welsh, Scottish, and French ancestors. I believe that because of the Welsh and Scottish ancestors, I must at least be an Irish cousin.

Thank you for the beautiful pictures and the wonderful descriptions. I know y'all must have had a truly wonderful visit. I hope you do get to return.

Hope everyone is taking care and staying well.

[Kareni]

Thanks for the wonderful post, Mary Jo, and the great photos. I've never been to Ireland, but you are definitely selling it as a destination. If you ever tire of writing fiction, I'm fairly confident that the Irish travel board would hire you!

[Margot]

Loved this tour or Ireland.
I have only been to Northern Ireland and that was during "the troubles." I had a perfect tour guide - my friend whose family lived just outside of Belfast. We did get to Derry where she had lived previously and saw some of the countryside but lots of damage from the conflict. My friends mother made the soda bread and other Irish treats during my visit. I loved staying with a local family as you get a good feel for what life is like for them - even in times of trouble.
I have so wanted to see the southern parts of the island, but that may have to wait as other parts of the world have first dibs on my time and money.
Johnny Cash wrote a song during one of his trips there - "Forty Shades of Green" - which I so enjoy singing.

[Teresa Broderick]

I'm so glad you enjoyed your visit to our country Mary Jo. We do have some fabulous history here and often all four season's weather in a day! We get a lot of rain, especially up towards the north of the country, I think it's what makes the place so green.
I gather you didn't like the black pudding :) I do like it and have it on a Sunday if we have a grill for lunch but it's definitely an acquired taste.
Maybe if you visit again you'll try my county of Waterford. The first county conquered by the Vikings when they came. You weren't a million miles away when you were in Kinsale. That's a place I love also. Had a couple of weekends there with hubby over the years. The food there is fantastic.

[Mary Jo Putney]

Sue--as always, I'm glad to have you as a traveling companion!

[Mary Jo Putney]

Having a driver/guide was great, Maryellen. Not only do they drive on the wrong side of the road, but those roads are NARROW! Not to mention twisty. Updated castles are great, though. *G*

[Mary Jo Putney]

Mary T, Ireland is indeed a wondrous place. I'm glad you enjoyed this virtual visit.

[Mary Jo Putney]

Alison, I agree--there are LOTS more than 40 shades of green! How wonderful that your trip to Normandy was actually cheaper with a Dublin stopover!

[Mary Jo Putney]

LOL! That's a lovely thought, Kareni, but I'm sure that Ireland has lots of silver tongued natives willing to wax poetic about their homeland. *G* I heartily recommend putting Ireland on your bucket list.

[Mary Jo Putney]

Margot, how wonderful that you had Irish friends to stay with! Perhaps you can stop over in Ireland as part of a trip to the farther parts of Europe? Dublin is right on the way!

[Mary Jo Putney]

Teresa, I'm sure it's the rain that creates the amazingly lush colors of the countryside. I suspect that one needs to start eating black pudding at a tender age to acquire the taste. The regular Irish sausage was lovely, though--much nicer than English Bangers. I do Hope I come your way again.

[Kathryn Kremer]

Looking a the picture of the cliffs, I wonder if that was where they got the idea for the "Cliffs of Insanity" in the Princess Bride? (:-) One day I would love to go to Ireland. Thanks for showing me some of the beauties there until the journey can happen.

[Mary Jo Putney]

Kathryn--the Cliffs of Insanity scenes in THE PRINCESS BRIDE were actually shot at the Cliffs of Moher! So your suspicions were right on. *G*

[Christina Courtenay]

That all sounds wonderful! I really, really want to go to Ireland now!

[Joan Wolf]

I'm 93% Irish (according to the gene thing my daughter paid $80 for as a gift. I always knew I was Irish but now I know the percentage. Is that worth $80? Anyway, Joe and I took a trip to Ireland - I guess it was four years ago now - we did the touristy thing and went on a Tauck tour. When I was young and visited Ireland with a girlfriend (who is also Irish) we rented a car and drove. No longer. Tauck bus was very comfortable (I have a bad back) and we stayed in very nice hotels (including Ashford Castle-where I got to ride a horse). Our guide was Irish and very informative. It is a truly beautiful country. It put me off eating lamb for lthe rest of my life, though. All those darling little lambs!!!! And the food is much better than it was 50 years ago! Thanks for bringing it back to my mind, Mary Jo. It sounds as if you had a fantastic trip. The idea of hiring a tour guide was brilliant.