On Shawls

Anne here. It's the 1st of April, but I doubt we're in the mood for silly jokes, but maybe I'm the April fool, because today, I was halfway through writing this blog on shawls, I went looking online for an image I knew I had buried in the old computer, but didn't want to dig out — this one, which comes from a book I own by Auguste Racinet. Pure shawl porn, don't you agree? I love all the various styles in which a shawl could be worn.

 

 

But guess where I found the image? In a blog I'd written for the Word Wenches back in 2012, on the topic of — you guessed it — shawls. Not a bad blog, if I say so myself, but it covered a lot of the territory I'd planned to cover today. Curses!

 

But after a bit of grumping around, I decided to soldier on and write a second blog on shawls. Not as informative as the first, which you can read here, but hopefully entertaining enough.

 

The shawl topic came to mind as I was sliding down a research rabbit hole and was diverted into gazing happily at some beautiful Regency-era shawls. It started with this dress, where a woman had decided to sew her own regency-style dress from some cheap pashminas. It's a gorgeous dress, don't you think? But she said the fabric was a nightmare to sew.

 

I very much doubt it was pashmina fabric — a genuine pashmina is never cheap. "Pashmina" has become a catch-all description for all kinds of shawls, and you can find them in any market you wander through, but a genuine pashmina is made of the wool of pashmina goats and usually comes from Kashmir.

 

There are, however, pashmina goats elsewhere in the world, as shown in this amusing article that hit the UK media recently. With people staying indoors because of the virus, a herd of wild pashmina goats have ventured down from the mountains and taken over the streets of the Welsh town of Llandudno.    

 

The ancestors of these now-wild goats were apparently acquired from Kashmir in the Victorian era, when cashmere (ie Kashmir) shawls were enormous, hugely fashionable and wildly expensive. 

 

Here's an image of Harding & Howell Drapers, 89 Pall Mall, London and would you look at all the gorgeously enticing shawls and fabric samples displayed. I think this print has been enhanced with deeper colors than the original print, but it conveys the sense of richness and lush fabrics that I want to convey, so I'm using it here. Click on the image to see a larger version.

 

 

And since I'm not going into much detail of the background or history of shawls, I will just continue to continue the shawl porn. 

 

How's this for a dashing outfit? A moss green silk taffeta pelisse with sky blue silk lining and Point de Bruxelles lace collar, and set off with a vivid, pumpkin-colored cashmere shawl. (French or English, circa 1811.)

 

As I said back in that first blog, I love shawls and have far too many, but I also hardly ever wear them. They annoy me by sliding off my shoulders, by slithering into the laps— or meals — of my neighbors, by needing to be carried, and by constantly demanding attention of the hitching up, rewrapping or reflinging-around-my-neck sort. (And as I pointed out in that original blog, while a Regency or Victorian era lady might have a handsome cicisbeo standing by to shawl-wrangle (and fetch drinks and tasty snacks) they don't appear to be very numerous where I go these days.)

 

Nevertheless, forget about cicisbei, a gorgeous shawl will seduce me every time. And after writing and posting images of some beautiful historical shawls, I found myself humming a certain tune, Julie-Andrews-like, and I thought, why not? So . . . here are a few of my favorite shawls . . .

 

1) My royal blue merino and silk shawl. It's handwoven and hand-dyed and I bought it years ago in the Blue Mountains, outside Sydney.

This is one shawl that does not demand a lot of maintenance. It sits comfortably around my shoulders and almost never tries to slide off. That's because it's almost circular, and has a deep, round neckline, and isn't a large oblong, like most shawls. I only use the gold pin pictured when I wear it outside in the wind. The pin isn't real gold, but is some kind of alloy, but the design is beautiful, and reminds me of an Irish harp. I love both the shawl and the pin to bits.

 

 

2) This is probably my favorite shawl. It's very light — muslin, or some kind of fine cotton — and is perfect for when hot weather begins to cool in the evening and you want to throw it over bare arms. I love the simple bright, bold, jungly embroidered designs.

 

The embroidery is unlike any other embroidered shawl I've seen — it's just tacking; you can see if you click on the little closeup below — which keeps it light. If ever I decided to embroider a shawl — which I wouldn't! — I'd probably use this method. And the shawl is so light, it packs up small and neat — it fits in a ziplock sandwich bag.

 

3) The peacock shawl below is one I've never worn. It was a gift from a friend, and though it's beautiful, it's a slider — all those beads and sequins weigh a bit so it tends to slide off my shoulders. But I found a use for it when I attended my first big group signing. When I arrived on the set-up day I discovered all the other authors had gorgeous big banners and their tables were loaded with giveaways and chocolates and various fabulous displays — and piles of books for sale. 

 

Me? I had a black tablecloth. And being traditionally published I didn't even have any books to sell; people had to buy them from the attending bookseller. So I went home and pulled out my peacock shawl and a tin of little pins, and grabbed a few other things so my table wouldn't look so terribly bare. So here's what I did. The peacock shawl really came into its own, don't you think?

So now, instead of trying to think up something clever to conclude this rambling wander through the aisles of shawldom, I'll leave the last word to A Famous Author, who no doubt was well acquainted with the value of shawls. I'm sure she had dozens. (Though whether she had a cicisbeo to attend her, I'm much less sure.)

 

"It is very pretty," said Mr. Woodhouse. "So prettily done! Just as your drawings always are, my dear. I do not know any body who draws so well as you do. The only thing I do not thoroughly like is, that she seems to be sitting out of doors, with only a little shawl over her shoulders—and it makes one think she must catch cold."

 

So, what about you? Do you wear shawls? Collect and neglect them, like me? Use them for un-shawl-like purposes? (Piano Shawl, anyone?) Or, in this time of self-isolation maybe you're kitting or crocheting one — there are so many gorgeous patterns on the web. Which one of the shawls pictured is your favorite? And do you know which Famous Author I've quoted above, and from which book?

Comments

[Bronwyn Parry]

I love shawls, and have a collection in almost every shade of the rainbow. As someone fascinated with historic costume, you can imagine my delight when, while volunteering at our localFolk Museum, we pulled from a box a huge shawl, dating to the early-mid eighteenth century - black with deep borders of woven paisley in golds and reds. It's beautiful, and in surprisingly good condition for its age. It's 3 metres long by 1.5 metres wide - huge! I'd love to see it over a full skirt, although alas, we don't have a dress dating from that era in our small museum.

[SUSAN WARD]

The goats currently roaming Llandudno, are historically the herd the Royal Welsh regiment choose their regimental mascot from. The current mascot who parades with them is Shenkin VI and he carries Army rank. The regiment has had a goat mascot for over a century.

[Anne Gracie]

What a wonderful discovery, Bronwyn. I love those huge shawls — and 3 metres long -- that's around 10ft!

[Anne Gracie]

Thanks for that info, Susan. I did know that the Royal Welsh Regiment had a pashmina goat as their regimental mascot, but I didn't realize it came from this same herd.

[Gail]

I confess, I'm a shawl lover. I think the reason we have so much trouble keeping them from sliding and slipping is because today they are made on the smallish side. That doesn't stop me from buying them or attempting to wear them. I've gravitated to wearing ruanas, a kind of shawl/poncho hybrid. They stay on better and are usually warmer, just not as pretty.

[Anne Gracie]

Oh, Gail, you'll be the ruination of me yet! Of course I had to look up "ruana" which I'd never heard of and oh my . . . This Irish weaver site has some really beautiful ones. Including this one, which wouldn't suit my coloring at all, but there are other gorrgeous colors. Oh dear . . .
https://weaversofireland.com/lambswool-celtic-ruana-wrap-gold/

[Mary T]

Thanks for the lovely distraction from all of the horrible news going on.

I love looking at shawls. Tried using them when I was young, but like hats, I always had a hard time holding on to them. I was forever taking it off and leaving it some place. Just didn't fit my lifestyle.

I love the peacock shawl the best. However, I do think it showed of the artistry more on the table than it would have on your shoulders (smile). All three are lovely though. And I believe the quote is from EMMA.

[Gail]

After visiting that site, I think I have a new purchase in mind!

[theo]

I have an earasaid. I wear it all winter. It's huge and lovely and all wool and keeps me snuggly warm. Not a slider because it's wool so I don't have trouble with that, and it's my parent clan colors so very pretty. And it works as a blanket when I'm on the couch and getting chilly. :)

[Mary Jo Putney]

Shawl porn, I love it!!!! I, too, am a great accumulator of shawls and related drapey things. I discovered ruanas when I spent a summer in Colombia in South America; I think the ruana is native to South America and is very useful as a wrap in the mountains and on cool evenings. I've acquired gorgeous shawls in various places, so they all have Stories attached. I have scarves in various weights in any place I spend much time--I usually have one draped around my neck when I'm working at the computer, and indeed, I have a soft tan ruana draped around me even as I type. I could go on-and on and on and on *G*--but shall refrain!

[Sue McCormick]

Shawls always make me think of Abrahm Lincoln. I don't wear them, as I cannot keep me and the shawl together.

But sitting around the house, if I'm getting cold, I grab a light-weight small afghan I knit from acrylic yarn, 31 years ago. It still does it's afghan-thing very well, but on those chilly days, I grab that afghan, sling it around my shoulders, and call it my Lincoln shawl.

[Becky S.]

I love shawls, both knitting them and wearing them. You may like a Faroese shawl. They were worn by working women who needed their hands free, not holding on to slippery wraps. Many Faroese shawls have a center back panel and wing-like sides that wrap around and fit the shoulders nicely. They might be knit in either heavy yarns for warmth or laceweight yarns for delicacy. Thanks for the post and the eye-candy!

[Kareni]

What a lovely (and warming) post, Anne. I think I'm developing a case of shawl/ruana/earasaid envy!

[Pamela DG]

Thanks for the lovely shawl porn. I'm drooling here. In my days of American Civil War Reenacting, I crocheted several shawls based on a granny triangle pattern I found. I was surprised how many men wanted those shawls! One of my friends found images of men, including Abraham Lincoln wearing either pashmina or crocheted shawls. The colors appear to be more muted than the bolder colored shawls ladies prefered. My favorite shawl is a sontag (also known as a bosom buddy, or hug-me-tight). It's ends wrap around ones waist and tie securely. They are usually knit or crocheted, but I've seen wool or silk shawls adapted to the style. It solves the problem of shawl end dangling in fires, or sliding off one's shoulders when one is attempting to get things done on a chilly morning. I still wear some of my dressier shawls on the rare occasions need to wear business clothes or a dress.

[Benedicte Reiter]

I'm a prodogious shawl knitter these days. Over the past couple of years I have knitted a number if beautiful shawls. I especially like a yarn i used to buy fram Craftsy - it is a mix if alpaca, merino wool and silk and comes in both a lave and a sport weight.
My biggest project was a half circle which ended up being a 3/4 circle in White merino with 5 different lace patterns. It took me almost 2,5 months to knit.
I wear shawls as scarves in winter.

[Lola Gaunt]

I have made about 6-7 knitted shawls that I have given away (of course), and have several that my niece brought back from Israel but they are long and unhandy to wear as they slide off the shoulders. I'd love to knit some more, have a lot of yarn, no wool as allergic to wool, but haven't found patterns that appeal to me.

[Nina D.]

I do love unique shawls, and will decorate with them. Occasionally wear them. Being broad makes most modern shawls a challenge to wear.

You can find real pashmina/cashmere shawls on Etsy, but you have to read the fabric content and be willing to pay $200-$300 for plain, modern made oversized ones. Other wool shawls of average size run around $100. Vintage may be higher. Also, The Bohemian Belle sells period appropriate wool shawls from about $66-$159 depending on size, gauge, or pattern.

Most modern "wedding pashmina" shawls are vicose or vicose blend. Which for reenacting in warmer climes works. Vicose tends to cool the wearer.

[Cheryl]

I also love shawls. Have several and always get a compliment when I wear one.

[Keira Soleore]

I loved this post, Anne. I especially love the image. I cropped the image you posted in 2012 and made the top half my blog header. I love the riot of color and how soignée the ladies are.

[Keira Soleore]

Regarding the herd of goats, I thought that was a joke. It is way funnier if it is real.

[Anne Gracie]

I know just how you feel, Gail.

[Anne Gracie]

Mary, I'm a bit the same with hats. I don't lose them, I just almost never wear them, but like the shawls, I have quite a few hats. Yes, the peacock shawl looked best on the table, and I've used it to enhance my table at group signings since.
And you are quite correct about the quote. Thanks.

[Anne Gracie]

That does sound warm and snuggly, Theo. I've always thought them a bit large and cumbersome and on the heavy side, but then again I've never worn one. I imagined it was the same fabric as kilt fabric which is pretty heavy. But beautiful.

[Anne Gracie]

Mary Jo, yes, I've met quite a few of your lovely scarves and shawls, and I remember seeing several draped, ready for action, over the back of your computer chair. I'm amazed the cats don't kidnap them.

[Anne Gracie]

Yes, Sue, you and I can agree that shawls tend to have wandering habits. I had no idea about Lincoln and his shawl, but obviously you're in good company. Your crocheted afghan sounds very comfortable and no doubt colorful, too. I made a number of crocheted shawls and blankets when I was a teen — I used to crochet a square each day on the train to and from school. I still have the big blanket but I don't use it much. Must dig it out this winter.

[Anne Gracie]

Thanks for the suggestion, Becky. I just looked up Faroese shawls and they're lovely, and do look very practical. I'm resisting taking up crochet again, but if I do I think I'd be tempted by those pretty shawls.

[Anne Gracie]

That's the purpose of shawl porn, Kareni. My work is done.

[Anne Gracie]

All these new-to-me names for shawls. I've never heard of a Sontag shawl, but the way some of them are worn on google images looks a lot like some old Scottish ladies I remember from when I was a kid. I suppose tying the ends of a shawl around you was the most sensible way for a working woman to wear them. I had a homespun lambswool shawl when I was a student, and I used to tie the ends around me as well, as i rode everywhere on my bike, and no shawl would have survived that without being tied down.
It's interesting that so many men were interested in your shawls — makes a lot of sense to me. I'm off to find an image of Abe Lincoln in a shawl.

[Anne Gracie]

Your shawls sound lovely, Benedicte. I wish typepad could show photos in the comments — imagine how gorgeous it would be if everyone could share photos of their shawls. We could do it on FaceBook, I suppose. I'd love to see your big white merino one. Australia has a long history with merino wool — there was a saying once that the country "grew on the sheeps' back" because wool exports were such a major part of the country's economy.

There are some beautiful yarns available these days, aren't they? I'm not a knitter, but whenever I find myself in a yarn aisle, I can't help but feel some of the yarns and am tempted to buy some. (I resist — I have enough unfinished craft projects.) Alpaca, merino and silk sounds deliciously sumptuous.

[Anne Gracie]

Lola, do an image search on google. I've done that a lot in the last day, following up on some of the shawls that readers here have mentioned in the comments. There are some gorgeous patterns around and I'm sure you'll find something that appeals. There are also a lot of knitting communities and forums on line, which might be a nice place to interact with like-minded people in this time of isolation. Good luck in finding something that appeals.

[Anne Gracie]

Thanks for that advice, Nina. You're right that most modern "pashminas" are viscose blends. I actually don't mind, as I live in what's called a "mediterranean" climate and we rarely get to freezing point. And the cheaper fabric blends also makes some lovely shawls affordable. I often deal with my shawl addiction by buying shawls as gifts for other people. For me almost all the attraction is in the pattern and design. And the idea of shawls.

[Anne Gracie]

They can look really elegant, Cheryl -- when not trailing in the soup. Clearly you are the elegant sort.

[Anne Gracie]

That image is from a lovely big book of costume from all over the world, Keira. There's a link to it in the text. I adore the plates showing all the different ways women wear shawls and scarves, but there are many others, too that are beautiful. If I remember correctly that book inspired some of the outfits worn by my heroine in An Honorable Thief. Not having a lot of money, she wore or adapted some of the tribal and ethnic clothes she'd acquired on her travels. And sparked a small fashion.

[Anne Gracie]

Yup, it's real. It made a lot of the news services.

[Mary Terry]

I love shawls, and I do wear them three out of four seasons.

[Mary Jo Putney]

Anne, I can't say that the cats have never developed an unhealthy interest in my shawls, but generally only when the item is in motion. *G*

[SusannahC]

Annie, I like your blue shawl, as well as the Regency-era pumpkin-colored shawl. I love to knit and wear shawls, and despite giving dozens away as gifts or to friends, I still own at least a dozen and am knitting another one.

Crescent-shaped shawls are the easiest to wear, in my experience, and because of their design, they are less likely to slither off your shoulders.

[Anne Gracie]

Thanks, Mary. I sometimes wear my very light one in summer. When the temperature drops in the evening it's nice to have a light shawl to keep the chill off.

[Anne Gracie]

Susannah that pumpkin colored one is stunning, isn't it -- the whole outfit is. What a lovely gift your kitted shawls must be. I think you're right about the curved shawls staying on more easily. My blue shawl hangs on my shoulders a bit like a cardigan with no sleeves. So much easier than an oblong one.

[JaniceM]

Ahh, shawls and wraps and the like are wonderful. Mine always are slipping too but then it gives me something to focus on in situations where the introvert in me cannot be quashed. You have some lovely shawls..thank you for sharing. And the Quote is from EMMA by Miss Jane Austen and it is Emma's father who was overly conscious of possible drafts.

[Pamela DG]

The Sontag is of Scandinavian/German origin, but the concept seems to be a commonsense solution to a common problem among working women.

[Kantu]

Hello,
A shawl lover her. I have a great collection of them. Really old (approximately 100 years) real pashmina; really old wool embroidered; and some absolutely gorgeous pashminas (very expensive) and wool embroidered shawls, also expensive. Some synthetic s as well. When I lived in Chicago, wore them almost year round. Instead of scarf under my coat. In almost every color. Mulberry silks too. I wear them with dresses and pants, slung over one shoulder till I need to wrap them around. I live in California now, and still use them, but as frequently. I would never put a pin in my shawls, even though I am intrigued by them. Shawl porn describes my collection very well

[Anne Gracie]

I like your point about giving introverts something to do, Janice. And you're spot on with your identification of the quoted passage. Thanks.

[Anne Gracie]

Kantu, your collection of shawls sounds both wonderful and well used. Mine, not so much. I almost never even wear a coat unless I'm walking the dog in mid-winter and the wind is coming across the ocean from Antarctica. And rain is forecast.

I take your point about using a pin, but really, for me, there are times when there's no other alternative. It's that or risk the shawl blowing away. I once lost a lovely silk scarf that way. It went over a cliff.

[Anne Gracie]

Thanks for that explanation, Pamela. I was thinking I could easily have made up one of my quizzes using all the various names for shawls.

[Jane Nelson]

I love shawls! All the ones I have I have knit myself. And I have way too many, and don't wear them nearly enough, but I love making them, so it is very unlikely that I will stop any time soon.