Jacobites!

Nicola here. Today I’m talking about an eccentric museum in the Scottish Highlands, a ruined castle, a monument and… The “Harry Potter” train! The thing that unites them all is the Jacobites.

A couple of weeks ago, like Bonnie Prince Charlie, I made my way to the Scottish Highlands and enjoyed following in his footsteps around many of the places with connections to the Jacobite cause. (I also enjoyed seeing the wildlife, especially the pine marten in the picture which visited the bird table at the place we were staying!) I’ve always had a soft spot for the Stuart dynasty. Their political judgement might have been wayward but there is something dashing and romantic about their struggles again the Hanoverians. Like so many lost causes they appeal to the heart not the head.

The Jacobites aimed to restore the Roman Catholic King James VII and II, and his heirs, to the thrones of Scotland, England and Ireland. Jacobites rebelled against the British government a number of times between 1688 and 1745. There was support for the Stuart Monarchy all over the country but most particularly in the West Highlands of Scotland where some of the clans had strong Roman Catholic affiliations.   The story of Bonnie Prince Charlie has become inextricably linked with the Highlands and the Scottish clans but also with tins of shortbread, mugs and… trains.

Castle Tioram

Just down the road from the tiny village where I was staying was Castle Tioram, pronounced, “Cheerum” a ruin that sits on a tidal

island. It has a history as romantic as its appearance and situation. Originally built in the 14^th century, it became the seat of Clan Macdonald of Clanranald. It was seized by government troops in 1692 when the clan chief, Allan of Clanranald swore allegiance to the Jacobite cause. Allan won it back during the 1715 Jacobite uprising, only to set fire to it himself because he had a premonition he was about to die and did not want it falling into government hands again. Allan was proved correct; he died at the Battle of Sheriffmuir.

We visited Tioram on a day of glorious sunshine, walking across the spit of sand from the mainland at low tide. That was one way to approach; the other was from the sea on the northern side. The island had a wonderfully peaceful atmosphere for a place with such a bloody history.

Glenfinnan

Some twenty miles away from Tioram, at the head of Loch Sheil, is the Glenfinnan Monument. It was erected in 1815 in memory of the clansmen who fought and died in the Jacobite Uprising of 1745. The raising of Bonnie Prince Charlie’s standard took place at the head of the loch on 19^th August in that year but his hopes were to end in defeat and tragedy at Culloden.

When we visited the monument was undergoing repair and was completely covered as you can see in the back of this picture! We went back later that evening when the place was deserted and I stood on the shore of the loch and conjured up in my imagination the ghosts of the men and women who had been there on August 19^th 1745, imagining their hopes, fears and dreams.

A Day at the Museum

And so to Fort William and The West Highland Museum, where there is the most astonishing collection of Jacobite memorabilia. My favourite items included Bonnie Prince Charlie’s waistcoat – it was extremely elegant and it was good to know he didn’t let his standards of dress slip during the uprising! It was exhibited as part of an amazing costume collection that also included a number of shirts and plaids, kilts and tartan dresses, plus the ultimate accessory of the sporran. I learned that the cloth was very dense and weather-resistant (for obvious reasons, although it a very hot day when I was there!) and that local plants were the source of most of the dyes. This made the variety and vividness of them even more impressive.

Most amazing of all Jacobite items, however, was the secret anamorphic portrait of Bonnie Prince Charlie. I had never seen anything like it before. After the Battle of Culloden it became treasonable to support the Stuart claim to the throne and so the loyal adherents to the cause had to pledge their allegiance in secret ways. This portrait can only be seen in the reflection on the cylinder. It was to this likeness that the Jacobites raised their glasses. At the first sign of discovery they could dismantle the tray and the cylinder and no one was any the wiser.

Harry Potter

It was time to get on the train for the 80 mile round trip between Fort William and Mallaig, reputed to be one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world. But not only was this a scenic route it was also a trip with a steam engine. For me this was a very nostalgic moment as I worked on a steam railway in my school holidays for years during my teens.

The engine was called the Jacobite. Of course. It honoured the connection between the local area and its history. It was also the train that famously features in the Harry Potter films and it was slightly disconcerting to be sitting in our carriage whilst lots of children dressed as wizards and witches ran along the corridors! As we approached the Glenfinnan Viaduct – the bridge to Hogwarts in the films – it felt quite exhilarating to be steaming along through such stunning countryside.

The line passes near to the Prince’s Cairn, the traditional place from which it was said Bonnie Prince Charlie embarked for France after the failure of the ’45. His story is part of not only the history but also the folklore and identity of that part of Scotland and his legend lives on. There were lots of different reasons why people supported Charles Edward Stuart at the time; nowadays he is so often portrayed as a gallant loser. The monument at Glenfinnan calls the Jacobite cause “The dream that ended in defeat.”

I hope you’ve enjoyed this short tour of a part of the Scottish Highlands and the connection to Charles Edward Stuart. It made me think about how romantic and appealing a “noble” cause can be and how often we support the under-dog, and why.

Are you ruled by your heart or by your head? Do you make practical decisions or decisions based on instinct, or a bit of both? Are you loyal to a particular cause? And do you think the Jacobites were gallant heroes or misguided rebels? I’m offering a copy of one of my Scottish-set Regencies to a commenter between now and midnight Thursday.

Comments

[Anne H]

I'm ruled by my head. I believe Bonnie Prince Charles was a poor leader and would have been a disastrous king, but some actions by the English were unnecessarily punitive.

[Anne H]

Also, Queen Mary II and Queen Anne were both Stuarts and the claim of the Hanoverian line was through Elizabeth Stuart.

[Shelagh Merln]

Reading this brought back some happy mrmories for me. I have visitd Scotland three times now but the highlands only once. I think my mst mrmorable Jacobite related memory was walking across Culloden field and thinking that the Scots must have felt like sitting ducks out there. In answer to your question, I like to follow my heart but guilt often gets in the way and forces me to follow my head instead.

[Nicola Cornick]

Yes, beneath the romance and the dashing reputation the Stuarts had pretty poor political judgement IMO! That to me is where history and legend diverge.

[Nicola Cornick]

It's amazing how many people don't realise that though, Anne, isn't it? I'm always surprised that a lot of people think George I had only a distant claim to the throne when in fact he was a direct descendant of James VI and I. Having researched and written about Elizabeth Stuart I have the impression she has been "lost" from history somewhat.

[Nicola Cornick]

Shelagh, you sound exactly like me! I have quite a romantic disposition but good old commonsense so often pulls me back! I thought Culloden was one of the most unhappy and desolate places I've ever been. It's important to experience these places but oh, the atmosphere.

[Jeanette]

Guilt. I always call it the "gift" that keeps on giving. It can eat you up if you let it and some folks seem to have the knack of laying it on down pat. I often do the opposite of Shelagh. My head tells me what I should do and what makes sense, but my heart can overrule all of that so I have often ended up going with what I "want" rather than what I "know". Then, of course, you can feel guilty about that if you want too. LOL The older I get, the less I let stuff like that bother me. Life is short and getting shorter. When all is said and done, I think I'll be happier with the life I've lived if I've done more of what I want and less of what I "should".

[Mary Jo Putney]

Okay, I despise this branch of the Stuarts--arrogant, narcissistic fascists who were willing to cause the deaths of tens of thousands of people because of their own egotism. Bonnie Prince Charlie led Scotland to destruction, then swanned around the Continent for the rest of his life, mooching for money and apparently oblivious to the ruin he'd wrought.

That said, your trip sounds AMAZING! I'd never heard of that kind of portrait--so clever!--and of course the scenery is stunning. And what redblooded storyteller could resist the Harry Potter train? *G*

Head and heart need each other. Not all emotional decisions are sane (see "Bonnie Prince Charlie," above), but not all rational decisions are right.

[julia wherlock]

Conveniently, by some quarters, do you think? I do. BTW, Nicola, I've never 'done' more of Scotland than Edinburgh (pathetic, I know) but my parents used to go every year by train from Bristol, all over, and come back raving about the castles, the history, the crazy width of the doors! (LOL)It replaced Dorset as their fave place to explore and photo albums piled up, full of gorgeous landmarks. I WILL go again one day.

[Andrea Penrose]

Wonderful blog, Nicola. It sounds like such a beautiful part of Scotland, and I always love an area that resonates with such rich history. Would love to visit!

Rebellion is such a two-edged sword. There are definitely principles and values worth fighting for. But the thought of all the brave men and women who die in the conflict always reminds me that right or wrong, passions demand a great sacrifice.

[Lillian Marek]

I've always thought that the only Stuart with a functioning brain was Charles II, but even though the rest displayed varying degrees of stupidity, incompetence and arrogance, they were not markedly different from their replacements. I confess to being a Jacobite not for any profound reasons. It's just that I read Kidnapped when I was a child, fell in love with Alan Breck Stewart, and have never recovered.

[Make Kay]

Oh, brava! I totally agree with your assessment of Bonnie Prince Charlie! While the myth of him is romantic, the actuality of him and his cause was not.
I'm lead by my head in most things, and he, like so many MANY other of the Europeans rulers or wannabe rulers, makes me gnash my teeth.

[Jolanda]

Thank you for the wonderful article. I've been to Fort William as a child twice, but can't recall the museum. I would love to visit the Highlands once more.
You sure are asking difficult questions this time! I mainly make decisions based on instinct, i.o.w. after careful subconscious deliberation :)
And I guess without lost causes and unrequited love etc. we wouldn't have most of our romantic poems and songs.

[Jolanda]

I loved that book! Must reread it soon. Thank you for bringing it up.

[Patricia Franzino]

Too much sacrifice for a cause that would not have been the best for the people of this area.

[Barbara Rogers]

I'm definitely lead by my head. I don't have much of an opinion one way or the other on the Jacobites. I believe that they thought they were doing the right thing -- but history has now pretty much disproved that. However -- they didn't have access to the kinds of information we do now.

[Nicola Cornick]

Very interesting, Julia. You could well be right! Edinburgh is wonderful and I do hope you have the chance to see the rest of the country one day!

[Nicola Cornick]

Very wise indeed, Jeanette! Thank you for sharing.

[Nicola Cornick]

LOL! A searing indictment, Mary Jo! Not that I disagree with you at all. Yes, the portrait was a high point for me. Absolutely fascinating and so clever! And it is such a very beautiful place to visit. I never tire of it.

[Anne Gracie]

Wonderful blog, Nicola. I'm with MJP on my view of the Bonnie Prince, even though I have a Scottish background and was raised to think him a romantic figure. I gobbled up all the Jacobite stories in those days. Now, and thinking about the long-term tragedy the Stuarts (and the English) brought to Scotland, and then the hideous Highland Clearances . . . not so much.

[Midi]

Love this blog, dear Nicola. And heart still very much rules head, even though a little more balance may have crept in over the years! My only career path has been framed by falling in love - with people, places, projects and causes. I've grown ever fonder of the Stuarts since researching and writing about James VI & ! in Nights of the Road, and fancy I may be embarking on a series. Spent three days near Fort William recently - my first visit to the West Highlands - and enjoyed almost the only sunshine I've seen in this whole month of being in the UK. The Jacobite ran close by the door of our beautiful B&B and I loved the land and loch around Glenfinnan. Also its little museum I thought well done. Reading you here, I wish I had visited that Fort William Museum. A reason to go back... Thanks for a lovely read!

[Nicola Cornick]

Thank you, Cara/Andrea! You are so right - one person's rebel is another's freedom fighter and the sacrifices are always high.

[Nicola Cornick]

Lillian, Charles II was the only one of the Stuarts (apart from his aunt Elizabeth the Winter Queen) whom I have any time for. I think he was clever (as well as a lot of other less attractive qualities.) As for Elizabeth, the general opinion at the time was that you got a lot more sense out of her than either her brother or her husband!

[Nicola Cornick]

Me too, Jolanda!

[Nicola Cornick]

Jolanda, is you do get the chance to visit Fort William again the museum is well worth a visit.

I think there does need to be a combination of instinct and reason in most decision-making!

[Nicola Cornick]

Yes indeed, Patricia. And of course not all of the clan leaders were involved out of high-minded principle. It's all so complicated and the outcomes were tragic.

[Nicola Cornick]

It can be so hard when you are in the thick of things to make a clear decision, can't it, Barbara. With history, hindsight is a wonderful thing!

[Nicola Cornick]

Thank you, Anne. It's a very interesting reflection on the differences between "history" and "story" in my opinion. The Jacobite risings lend themselves to wonderful storytelling but whilst history might be a matter of interpretation there isn't any good interpretation of what happened in the aftermath of the 45 IMO.

[Nicola Cornick]

Thank yo so much for dropping in, Midi. I'm thrilled you enjoyed your visit to the Highlands and the museum is definitely worth a return visit. I'm also thrilled to hear there may be a series developing out of Nights of the Road!

[Jeanne Behnke]

I just want to say your blog was so interesting - an enjoyable read. Being a huge sports fan, I definitely thing most people root for the underdog (unless they're playing "your" team).

[Nicola Cornick]

Thank you so much, Jeanne, I am so pleased you enjoyed the blog! It's interesting how we seem naturally towards the underdog, isn't it. I wonder why it happens?

[Laura Boon]

I am ruled by my heart. It's probably not a good thing (in the sense of practical) but I always support the cause or person closest to my heart even when I can see the defeat is inevitable.

[Teresa Broderick]

My head and my heart are constantly at war and I'm sorry to say my heart wins nine times out of ten. It's gotten me into a lot of bother over the years!
I've only ever visited Edinburgh and one of my greatest wishes is to see the Highlands. I'm always had a passion for this. Here in Ireland a lot of our landscape and climate is the same as Scotland. So I would be well ready for the weather :). Also, both countries have had a somewhat tragic past. There's marvellous history to enjoy in either though.

[Nicola Cornick]

I think instinct is very strong in these things, Laura!

[Nicola Cornick]

I'd love to re-visit Ireland one day soon, Teresa. As you say, it has the most wonderful landscape and history. One of my forever favourite places.

[D]

Oh man I envy your whole trip. I have only lived in Germany for 2 years while we were stationed there, and spent a day in EuroDisney for my daughter's 2nd birthday. But I never really got to travel. And I ADORE history. Although the town of Ipofen (https://www.iphofen.de/) was very historical and so was the house inside the wall, which is surrounded by a moat if you can belive it. But being of Scottish and Irish ancestry I have always wanted to live in Great Britain and explore every inch of every island at my leisure lol. And I am such a huge J.K. Rowling fan that I am super jealous of your train ride.