Cara/Andrea here, I'm musing today on a dark subject . . . as in black! Now, New York fashionistas would have no problem adhering to the complex rituals of 19th century mourning—wearing black is very stylish and an everyday staple of any modern trendy wardrobe. It’s hip and ultra cool to eschew brighter colors for the shadow-dark hue of midnight. But as we all know, black had a different connotation in in the past.
You’re probably all aware of the basic mourning rules, but the current exhibit of Mourning Wear at the Metropolitan Museum in New York (a fabulous show if you have a chance to get to the city—all photos here are ones I took of the clothing on display) got me to revisit the subject. And my research reminded me that Regency rules weren’t nearly so elaborate and strict as those of the Victorian era, where the Queen seemed to inspire a rather ghoulish extreme in honoring the dead.
The Regency seemed a little more laid back . . . as in a Pirates of the Caribbean parlay, the rules were more like . . . guidelines. For those who couldn’t afford the expense of a black dress—or didn’t feel compelled to buy one—it was perfectly acceptable to take an older gown, undo the stitching, dye it black and then re-sew it. Here’s an excerpt from one of Jane Austen’s letters from 1808:
“My Mother is preparing mourning for Mrs E. K. – she has picked her old silk pelisse to pieces, & means to have it dyed black for a gown – a very interesting scheme."
If a dress could not be made or bought, a simple black mourning band or touch of black ribbons was considered proper (though this happened more with the lower classes.) Here’s another quote from a letter Jane wrote to her sister in 1814:
“A grand thought has struck me as to our gowns. This six weeks’ mourning makes so great a difference that I shall not go to Miss Hare till you can come and help choose yourself, unless you particularly wish the contrary. It may be hardly worth while perhaps to have the gowns so expensively made up. We may buy a cap or a veil instead; but we can talk more of this together…Now we are come from church, and all going to write. Almost everybody was in mourning last night, but my brown gown did very well… It makes one moralise upon the ups and downs of this life.”
For our Regency ladies, proper mourning was a year and a day. For “full mourning” (typically the first six months )black crepe was the fabric of choice, along with bombazine silk, which had a matte finish. (Shiny fabrics were off limits.) The only jewelry considered proper was jet, amber, black glass or block enamel.
During “half mourning” subdued colors were permitted. Those hues included dull grays, lilac and lavender, as well as white, which was a mourning color during Medieval times. (If one had a an extended family plagued by bad health, one could be wearing some form of mourning for years!) Jewelry made of pearls, coral and amethyst was allowed.
There are, of course, many more arcane details but this is just a quick primer to go along with the photos of the vintage clothing on display at the museum (some of them really show the fabric and pattern details, which are exquisite.) What strikes me is the variety of wonderful textures, shapes and silhouettes within the confines of the rules—a visual reminder that style is always in fashion!
Now I happen to love black, and wear it quite often, but I would not like it to be the only hue I was permitted to wear. I’d really miss the range of blues, from deep indigo to sea-green to robin’s egg. What color would you miss wearing most if you were required to wear deep mourning?
Favourite colours do show in the Wench's writing! And it can affect the reader. Every time Stephanie Laurens has her heroine looking magnificent in bronze or amber or gold or daffodil yellow I wince, as those shades do nothing for me. I suppose it has to do with whether I can empathise with the heroine, and her choice of colour can interfere with that. I'm with you in the rich varieties of blues, tinged green or purple.
Posted by: Frances Clancy | Wednesday, April 08, 2015 at 12:28 AM
Oh! I've been looking into late Victorian mourning lately - and wondering if/how mauviene was used in dress - and right there is an absolutely stunning example! Do you have any details for that frock??? (sadly I can't go and see for myself...)
Colour I would miss most? Greens, I think.
Posted by: Shannon McEwan | Wednesday, April 08, 2015 at 02:18 AM
What an interesting post, Cara/Andrea. One must add that children's mourning was white, not black, in the 19th century, and that went for young debutantes, too. The important thing was the absence of colour - the dress might have a black sash but a coloured sash was out.
Posted by: Elizabeth Hawksley | Wednesday, April 08, 2015 at 03:22 AM
FRances, that's a really interesting observation. I think many of us Regency authors do describe the color and clothing of our heroines and heroes. Fashion is an integral part of the era—at least it is for me. Describing the way the gowns look in the glitter of a ballroom or the flickering light of a candle helps create an ambiance.
Posted by: Andrea Penrose | Wednesday, April 08, 2015 at 05:37 AM
Shannon, so sorry but I didn't copy down any info on that dress (but isn't it stunning!) Here's a link to the exhibit page on the msueum's website. The curator of fashion might be able to help you. http://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2014/death-becomes-her
Posted by: Andrea Penrose | Wednesday, April 08, 2015 at 05:41 AM
Thanks, Elizbeth—I didn't realize white was the choice for children's mourning. (This exhibit did show a girl in black mourning, but some of the costumes were American.) It makes sense—yes, the absence of color!
Posted by: Andrea Penrose | Wednesday, April 08, 2015 at 05:45 AM
I wear a fair amount of black because it's easy and doesn't require much thought, but I do like to jazz it up a bit with dark reds and burgundies. I would definitely miss those colors if it was all black, all the time!
Posted by: Mary Jo Putney | Wednesday, April 08, 2015 at 01:42 PM
And those colors would miss you! They suit you to a T!
Posted by: Andrea Penrose | Wednesday, April 08, 2015 at 04:51 PM
I have seen pictures of children dressed in mourning black. One of the illustration is on this blog. When a young child died, the family wore white. I think this must have been a child under 12 or so.
Posted by: nancy | Wednesday, April 08, 2015 at 05:04 PM
Thanks very interesting, Nancy. I had not known that. The Ackermann fashion plate shown here was something new to me as well. I really didn't realize that white was as common as it appears to have been. I hadn't seen any other prints or actual dresses showing white.
Posted by: Andrea Penrose | Wednesday, April 08, 2015 at 05:10 PM
I've often wondered, when did a year of mourning become the norm? I can understand a widow's not remarrying too quickly to make sure she isn't carrying a child, thought you hardly need a year to figure that out. It seems to me that in earlier times, rapid remarriage was common. I recall an anecdote about a 17th century gentleman proposing to the widow at the funeral and being told he was too late. And in Shakespeare there's Richard III proposing to Anne over her husband's coffin, and Hamlet's reference to thrift—the funeral baked meats coldly serving the wedding feast.
Posted by: Lillian Marek | Thursday, April 09, 2015 at 06:28 AM
Lillian, you raise a fascinating question! (And those are such interesting examples!) I don't know when a year became standard (and actually, I think it's a year and a day, which as you point out, seems to have no practical significance.) This may be a topic for another blog post!
Posted by: Andrea Penrose | Thursday, April 09, 2015 at 06:34 AM
The exhibit seems to be very interesting and I'm glad you brought it to our attention. What interests me even more, though is how many of us are responding to the colors in specific reference as to how we look in them. I think it must be taught to girls in the cradle. I'm not very clothes conscious, but I like to look decent, so I stick to "my" colors.
Therefore my instant reaction to this is "thanks to today, I don't need to worry about this anymore!" I look awful in both Black and White! I must have a vivid color near my face to have either color work for me. So, in Regency and Victorian times, I would need to sit in a corner and be a wallflower! (And also, I'm now in my late eighties. So in those times, I would probably have been in permanent mourning!)
Posted by: Sue W. McCormick | Thursday, April 09, 2015 at 09:58 AM
I would miss any color. I never wear black. To me it seems to drain color aware from people's faces. This seems ever truer as we age.
Posted by: Alison Y | Thursday, April 09, 2015 at 10:02 AM
A little philosophy for you too.
http://publicdomainreview.org/2015/04/09/black-on-black/
Black isn't a color; it's the absence of light.
Posted by: Anne Hoile | Thursday, April 09, 2015 at 11:29 AM
I think all the periods of mourning became standard in the Victorian era. That for widows had long been a year . Widowers were often excused for marrying within the month, especially if they ahd small children.
Most discussions of mourning allow for white after deep mourning. White , grey and black seem to have been the usual colors for mourning. Haven't seen any recommendations for lavender in the regency period.
Before Victoria and her excessive mourning, the aristocracy more or less followed the court rules and others did as much as they wished or the neighbors thought proper.
Posted by: nancy | Thursday, April 09, 2015 at 11:57 AM
Sue, yes, it's so interesting that we all have colors we think enhance our looks. I'm partial to blues, and Mary Jo loves rich reds and burgundies. I look insipid in white, but think black is fine—but as you say, a touch of color to it adds pizzazz.
Women bore the brunt of mourning traditions, so we all would have been wearing black for extended periods of time, given the health situation. Thank goodness we don't have such constricting rules anymore!
Posted by: Andrea Penrose | Thursday, April 09, 2015 at 12:04 PM
Interesting, Alison. White doesn't work for me, but I always feel black looks chic on anyone.
Posted by: Andrea Penrose | Thursday, April 09, 2015 at 12:05 PM
Ha! Yes, we are getting VERY philosophical about color—or lack of it. (The physics of light and color is fascinating.)
Posted by: Andrea Penrose | Thursday, April 09, 2015 at 12:06 PM
Nancy, that's a very good point about Victoria. I think the rules did become more rigid when she took up her eternal mourning And yes, men always seemed to have less expected of them. What about women needing a breadwinner!
Posted by: Andrea Penrose | Thursday, April 09, 2015 at 12:09 PM
I have an old group wedding picture of a bride, my great grand aunt, wearing black. I thought it strange but after doing research, for that time period, it was common.
Posted by: Jackie | Thursday, April 09, 2015 at 12:42 PM
Very interesting, Jackie. I guess it depends on the degree of family closeness—immediate family would usually wait until after the mourning period to wed, but I guess a more distant relative wasn't held to those rules—but i didn't realize they would wear black for the ceremony.
Posted by: Andrea Penrose | Thursday, April 09, 2015 at 12:55 PM
I don't think the quotes from Shakespeare are meant to show that it was common or approved to marry so quickly -- in fact I think he meant the opposite. Richard III is a villain, and it is meant as an example of his villainy that he ignores propriety and grief for his own ends. Hamlet is disgusted with his mother and uncle that they married so soon after his father's death and shows his contempt by attributing thrift as a motive.
As for mourning clothes, I thought the ones on Downton Abbey that the family wore after their relatives died on the Titanic were exquisite. Of course, many of the costumes on Downtown are exquisite, but these stood out even in that crowded field.
Posted by: Susan/DC | Thursday, April 09, 2015 at 03:37 PM
True, Susan, but it does show that it happened—but I suppose it does in every era, especially when there is material gain involved.
All the clothes in Downton Abbey are amazing. They have a wonderful designer . . .but then, they have Worth to refer to. Sigh. Talk about divine clothes . . .even mourning wear, which he did.
Posted by: Andrea Penrose | Thursday, April 09, 2015 at 05:06 PM
That is interesting, Frances. You could probably write a research paper on the subject. I know I go for jewel colours most of the time, as I like them.
Posted by: Jobev | Friday, April 10, 2015 at 11:18 AM
On white, I just came across a bit in Richard Rush's account of his time as American Ambassador to St. James's and he arrive as the mourning for Princess Charlotte (died early November 1817) was ongoing. And it lasted.
Jan 20th 1818 Dined at Lord Castlereagh's. "All were in full black, under the court mourning for the Princess Charlotte." (I believe he's wrong here in that official court mourning had ended, but no one stopped. The whole country persisted.) "one lady was in white satin! It would have been painfully embarrassing but that her union of ease and dignity allowed her, after the first suffusion, to turn her misfortune into grace."
Now it could have been the shiny satin, but the impression is that the main issue was white.
There were a number of foreign ambassadors at the dinner along with their wives so it was probably a foreign lady.
Posted by: Jobev | Friday, April 10, 2015 at 11:28 AM
Thank you!
Posted by: Shannon McEwan | Friday, April 10, 2015 at 03:34 PM
What colour would I miss? Red, certainly. My wardrobe is black-grey-white & red. That's the color I use when I want -color.
You're totally right in this sentence -If one had a an extended family plagued by bad health, one could be wearing some form of mourning for years! I remember seeing pictures of marriages from my family taken years ago, and seeing brides dressed in black because somebody had died in the family. They linked one mourning with the next one. It sounded terrible for me.
And I think the widows dressed in black like forever. At least I remember my grandmother dressed in black several years until she felt brave enough to dress in lavender or those half-mourning colours. And I'm talkink about 1980s.
Posted by: Bona | Saturday, April 11, 2015 at 12:53 PM
Jo, I agree—this could make a fascinating research paper.
Posted by: Andrea Penrose | Saturday, April 11, 2015 at 05:19 PM
You're welcome! Hope it helps.
Posted by: Andrea Penrose | Saturday, April 11, 2015 at 05:19 PM
Very interesting, Jo! The shiny could be it, as that apparently is a against the rules. But it does sound like white is the issue. I don't remember reading about white in regard to mourning in any period books, so was surprised to discover when I did a little research on mourning that it's considered as acceptable as black.
Posted by: Andrea Penrose | Saturday, April 11, 2015 at 05:24 PM
Yes, Bona, all those vintage relative photos do look awfully dreary. Those poor women who had no relief from unremitting black. They must have yearned for a bright dress! (And I love touches of red with black, white /gray too.)
Posted by: Andrea Penrose | Saturday, April 11, 2015 at 05:27 PM
My theory is that we prefer those colors which look good on us, unless there is some mitigating circumstance. My tiny dark Lebanese American mother hated brown (awful on her), green (few greens would look good on her, but the primary reason was she was "the little dark foreign girl" in an Irish Catholic school), and purples (her mother, who died when Mama was six, was in a purple-draped coffin).
Like Jo, I'm great in jewel tones, and SOME deeply saturated lighter shades. No muddy tones! I look better in silver/grey and copper/cinnamon/rust than in gold. My sister got a different mix of genes for her complexion, and looks good in almost any color.
Posted by: A. Marina Fournier | Tuesday, April 14, 2015 at 02:11 AM
I seem to recall--and it might have been set down after the Regency--a whole code of how long you were to be in deep mourning for which relative. I just don't recall where I saw it.
Posted by: A. Marina Fournier | Tuesday, April 14, 2015 at 02:16 AM
In some cultures (India, Greece, likely others) a widow is stuck in black the rest of her life, no matter the age at which she was widowed. In either 2014 or 2015, a number of widows in India joined in the Holi festival custom of adorning oneself and one's clothes with bright colored powders.
Imagine being stuck in perpetual mourning for a husband one loathes--and I don't think the men in those cultures are obligated to show mourning for very long at all, if they do at all. Hmph!
Posted by: A. Marina Fournier | Tuesday, April 14, 2015 at 02:20 AM
As I said above, in response to another commenter, like Jo, I'm great in jewel tones, and SOME deeply saturated lighter shades. No muddy tones! I look better in silver/grey and copper/cinnamon/rust than in gold.
I love bleens and grues and garnet to wine reds. Oddly enough, I have been known to wear saffron, and that would be right out.
Posted by: A. Marina Fournier | Tuesday, April 14, 2015 at 02:22 AM
Marina, I think it was in Victorian times that rules became more specific—and stricter.
Posted by: Andrea Penrose | Tuesday, April 14, 2015 at 07:05 AM
So true, Marina. One hopes that women in other cultures can slowly change the mores to allow themselves the freedom to choose.
Posted by: Andrea Penrose | Tuesday, April 14, 2015 at 07:07 AM
I remember in "The Secret Garden," Mary's new clothes were white because someone (Mr. Craven, perhaps?) felt black mourning attire on a child was too much.
Also, I had heard the degrees of distinction varied, even in the Regency. Something about ladies wearing black gloves and gentlemen wearing a black armband, which was, I think, in a Georgette Heyer book I've read. "The Grand Sophy," perhaps?
Posted by: Anne Seebaldt | Wednesday, May 20, 2015 at 10:01 AM