Jo here, thinking about men's fashion, helped by Charlie in sartorial excellence as a pirate. The blog on the appeal of the Scottish historical often mentioned the kilt, and it got me wondering what style of men's fashion we find most appealing. I'm going to run through some general historical styles, and invite you to have your say.
For some reason Typepad still won't let me adjust image placement, so I apologize for the slightly messy layout. Click on any image to enlarge it.
Ancient We'll touch briefly on the loosely garbed ancients. For this blog I'm not considering armor. I get that the toga was probably supposed to suggest that the man didn't have any manual labor to do, but it's not exactly sexy, is it? But by all means praise it if you want!
On to the middle ages, which covers a whole lot of time. This handsome tunic is for sale here Again, the style is for his leisure hours, showing he's not having to dig ditches or fight the enemy, but giving him time to compose songs in praise of his lady's eyes . I do find such long robes very attractive on the right man. Do you?
It's a dress, though, isn't it? Does that matter? Kilts are skirts.
Speaking of which, let's take a moment to admire the men secure enough to join the Greek Guard.
(By Robin from England (athens077 Uploaded by Future Perfect at Sunrise) [CC-BY-2.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0)], via Wikimedia Commons)
So, when are men in skirts sexy and when are they not?
Let's look at the 15th/16th centuries, time of the peascod belly. Did they all have beer-bellies, and if not, why did they prize the look? I have a soft spot for the gorgeously-garbed guy, and this guy's garb is gorgeous.
What of the wild Restoration rakes? The thing they had going for them was the periwig! What can I say? I love the look of a manly guy with really long, thick hair. John Wilmot, 2nd Earl of Rochester was one of the baddest of the bad, but I have a soft spot for him, perhaps because he was a poet. Or perhaps it's just the hair!
I know it doesn't show his regular clothes, but they weren't a lot different to the next few generations in the 18th century.
Of course you know I love the fine plumage of the 18th century gentleman. The silk, the lace, the embroidery and braid. It's a shame the men in period portraits are never as fine as their clothes!
Which brings us to the Regency. I confess I don't find men's Regency clothing particularly sexy, though those high cut waistcoats and jackets did their best to flaunt their wares! This Ingres drawing illustrates the look very well.
Which means I have to go back in time and mention the cod-piece. They did like to show off a good leg as well, didn't they?
Beyond that, we come to the Victorian and the end of flamboyance in historical men's clothes. There is something about a man in a well-cut suit, but I still have that soft spot for flash.
So, what style of clothing do you think best makes a handsome hero even more handsome?
Have your say.
Jo
Coming in August. Read more about Seduction in Silk here.
I do think togas have their charm. The important thing is that they absolutely must be draped correctly; if so, they can reveal the body underneath (especially since the drapery was supposed to be pulled closely around the right hip and thigh). Also, the man in question must bear himself well. There was nothing more laughable than a poorly draped toga, it was said.
To illustrate my point, here was a drawing of young Cicero I did as a commission. (Cato, on the other hand, preferred to wear a more old-fashioned toga, sans tunic underneath. He also scorned shoes.)
Posted by: Joanne Renaud | Monday, March 25, 2013 at 02:42 AM
My favourite must be Regency, although I love the pretty fabrics worn by Georgian men. Having said that, I would like ANYTHING that is not the sloppy scruffy style that today's men find so acceptable. What is good about scruffy t-shirts, creased jeans and dirty trainers? And the messy hair(if any) and unshaven look that goes with them. they look as if they've slept in their clothes. A friend and I went to a certain 'designer' shopping outlet and were horrified to see price tags of several hundred pounds on outfits that looked as if they'd come from an Oxfam shop. Sorry - it's a very sore point with me.
Posted by: Cynthia Kirk | Monday, March 25, 2013 at 02:44 AM
Good one, Joanne. That picture does show the toga well.
Cynthia, I really dislike the stubbly look. Shave or beard, please.
Jo
Posted by: Jo Beverley | Monday, March 25, 2013 at 05:56 AM
I like to see the 1800's outfits but I have to tell you--when our younger daughter was married, my hubby had to wear a tuxedo and when he came down the steps---I fell head over heels in love again! WHOA--that tux on my hubby--wow what a difference and he was a professionally dressed man all his life as a programmer/systems analyst--they were not allowed jeans etc.
I picture Mozart and some of the beautiful materials and colors (I love color) but then only the very rich could afford that! What did the few middle-class men wear of the 1800's?
Posted by: Martha Andrews | Monday, March 25, 2013 at 06:24 AM
Cavaliers with their plumed hats, lace and ruffles, and the equally decorative Georgians with their lace and embroidery. I think I like the concealment factor, the contrast between the public presentation and the man within. Mystery is much more enticing than skin-tight clothing that reveals all at a glance.
What I dislike, though, are mutton chop whiskers and long beards. Those are far worse than scruff!
Posted by: Lil | Monday, March 25, 2013 at 07:28 AM
Appropriate to include Evzons on Greek Independence Day.
http://murderiseverywhere.blogspot.com/2012/03/another-greek-independence-day.html
Posted by: Liz V. | Monday, March 25, 2013 at 07:58 AM
I've never gotten over codpieces. must be the middle ages equivalent of a Porsche...
Posted by: trudy | Monday, March 25, 2013 at 09:09 AM
I have had a soft spot for John Wilmot, Earl of Rochester and his poetry for years. He really was the ultimate bad boy and I love that portrait of him! The periwig looks so good on him!
I love the look of the Georgian men when they have the legs and body to carry it off. And that extra something that makes even the most overdone silks and embroidery look macho on them.
However, I have to say I am a real goner for a Regency rake in buckskins and boots. SIGH! Probably my favorite male fashions with a 20th century tuxedo coming in second.
And the slovenly mode of dress of many of today's young men simply makes me cringe. It does, however, make those few who do know how to dress well look all the better!
Posted by: LouisaCornell | Monday, March 25, 2013 at 11:20 AM
Jo here. Yes, Martha, on the plumed hats! Hats, hair, silks. Men used to be so deliciously decorative! After all, in much of the animal world men attract a mate by being decorative!
Jo
Posted by: Jo Beverley | Monday, March 25, 2013 at 12:26 PM
I didn't know about Greek Independence Day, Liz. Thanks for that.
Jo
Posted by: Jo Beverley | Monday, March 25, 2013 at 12:28 PM
The most erotic male attire ever is the tuxedo. While not exactly suppressing appreciation of the body, it focuses attention on a man's face and hands. I've always felt that what a man says, thinks and does is the most important aspect of his persona; it's certainly the aspect I first and foremost want to know about. A black tux with touches of white about the face focuses one's attention on those attributes. But from the romance covers I see nowadays, I suspect that's just me, because everyone else seems to want to see their heroes naked, buffed and waxed.
Posted by: Janice | Monday, March 25, 2013 at 05:06 PM
I suppose if you lived in the relevant era, then whatever the fashion was great. However from a 21st century point of view, I like the late Georgian and Regency best, with todays well dressed lads (none of those jeans, sneekers, t-shirts and all ripped and dirty) coming in a close third. However, I agree, mutton chop whiskers, and really long scruffy beards of the Victorians are a real turn off. And the cod piece? Well really, how to impress the neighbours and work colleagues without really trying.
Posted by: Jenny Reid | Monday, March 25, 2013 at 06:32 PM
It's hard for a man to look bad in a tux, even men who look sloppy in anything else.
Posted by: Pat | Monday, March 25, 2013 at 07:00 PM
By the. Way, is there an author brave enough to write a book about a hero in the era of cod pieces. Henry VIII wore one I believe. Question ? Because he was King, did his have to be the biggest and all the courtiers have to be smaller? I'm a bit worried about the dog in the picture above.
Posted by: Jenny Reid | Monday, March 25, 2013 at 07:56 PM
(1) Tuxedo (J. Bond, C. Grant)
(2) Clean neat lean jeans, casually worn dress shirt.
(3) Bath towel.
Posted by: Artemisia | Monday, March 25, 2013 at 08:39 PM
Well, I think some of the styles were silly, such as the codpiece. Ick. I like a manly man...like in the kilt or the Roman soldier in leather...or in contemporary stories the levis or khakis...or tuxes. Actually, I guess I like au naturale...even for women. I'm not one for artifice.
Posted by: Janice Hougland | Tuesday, March 26, 2013 at 08:32 AM
I love Georgian, without the wig, and Regency clothing. To me, men's garb took a hit during the Victorian period from which it never recovered. I good tux is nice, but give me a cravat any day.
Posted by: Ella Quinn | Tuesday, March 26, 2013 at 09:03 AM
I agree with Ella Georgian without the wig or regency. There is something about long hair and a tricorn!!Victorian men just seem dark in character as well as clothes must be all that smoke (chimneys,trains etc)A three piece suit looks smart these days and I must admit the husband in a kilt for our daughters wedding was quite a revelation !
Posted by: Jo Banks | Tuesday, March 26, 2013 at 01:45 PM
Interesting, Janice, about where clothes focus the eye, and that something plain focuses the eye on the hands and face. I'm not sure it entirely works for me, though. I do like clothing that draws the eye to the body,as long as the body is long and lean!
Jo
Posted by: Jo Beverley | Tuesday, March 26, 2013 at 02:37 PM
Jenny, I've never read anything about size of codpieces, but it does seem that being bigger than the king would be a bad idea!
Jo
Posted by: Jo Beverley | Tuesday, March 26, 2013 at 02:39 PM
I'm definitely a fan of Georgian men's fashion. The silks, lace, embroidery, color, long hair... (Alas, it is certainly true that the men's faces in portraits never seem to be anywhere near as fabulous as their clothing. I've probably looked through hundreds of Georgian portraits and have yet to see one I find "perfect.")
Posted by: Margot | Tuesday, March 26, 2013 at 06:06 PM
Margot, I'd consider Colonel George here to be pretty close to perfect.
In other words, YES I SO WOULD
Posted by: Joanne Renaud | Tuesday, March 26, 2013 at 08:44 PM