I adore fish and chips. I grew up inland and fish were not a regular part of the diet, but on rare occasions, we’d go to a “fish fry.” That was a fundraiser dinner put on by a local fire department with fish and French fries and I don’t remember what else, but surely pies would have been there for dessert, this being Upstate New York.
The wonderful crunch of deep fried batter contrasted so beautifully with the mild white fish within. Fabulous! The experience was so far from the dreary fish sticks served regularly in the school cafeteria that I never considered them even remotely related.
Later I realized that fish and chips are the iconic food of the British Isles, which are bodies of land completely surrounded by fish. Potatoes grow really well there, too. Fish and chips as we know them required deep fat frying, and appeared in the Britain in the 1860s.
Both Lancashire and London claim to have invented fish and chips: here’s a sign commemorating the London location. There is also a theory that deep fried fish began in London and moved north while chip shops originated in Scotland and moved south, and they met and married in the Midlands. I’m not sure if that’s true—the facts are not entirely clear—but as a romance writer, I like it. <G>
The idea for this blog struck when Wench Jo Beverley recently had a birthday. Forget chocolate—she wanted fish and chips for her birthday treat.
I understood perfectly. Indeed, during my recent trip to Ireland, I ordered fish and chips several times and consumed them with great pleasure. Possibly the best fish and chips I’ve ever had were at the Crackpots restaurant in Kinsale. I think the fish leaped right out of the boat and into the deep fat fryer. (Traditionally beef drippings were used, but now it's more likely to be something like peanut oil.)
Cod has been the traditional British favorite fish for deep frying, with haddock in second place. The discussion of fish and chips practically turned into an Ask A Wench blog.
Nicola Cornick: “I was brought up on fish and chips. It was a staple meal in the Yorkshire of my childhood and we were lucky enough to live just around the corner from a prizewinning fish and chip shop. The smell of fat was very pungent!
I particularly liked having a bag of chips in the evening with the little left over bits of batter sprinkled on top of the chips. These were called scraps in my part of the world but have different names in different parts of the UK. Cod wasn't on the menu in those days. It was all haddock from the North Sea and deliciously fresh. I didn't like vinegar but had lots of salt. My arteries are probably irreparably furred. These days I eat fish and chips much less frequently and my favourite fish and chip experience is sitting outside the Applecross Inn in the West Highlands of Scotland eating fish and chips and looking across the sea to Skye."
I thought fish and chips would be popular in former parts of the Empire, and sure enough, weighing in from Australia:
Anne Gracie: “Mary Jo, fish and chips is still very popular here, though we don't have British cod, which is delicious. Flake (or shark) is the most popular fish for fish and chips, mainly because there are no surprise bones, I suspect, not for the flavor, which is fairly bland. For me there's nothing better than sitting on the beach or in a park, eating fish and chips straight from the paper — none of this plate or knife and fork nonsense. And it's still a "first day of the holidays" ritual for many people. When my writers retreat group go on retreat, it's usually our first meal of the retreat— fish and chips and champagne.”
Canada: another country heard from!:
Jo Beverley: “I had great fish and chips in Hobart, Tasmania. Dorado, maybe? I like haddock. Don't much like cod. In Canada the choice was between halibut and cod and I went for halibut. I remember in Nova Scotia stopping by a van for fried clams and chips. The fish needs to be fresh. At a pinch it can be previously frozen, but days old fish is never, ever good. Morecambe, where I grew up, had been a fishing village and there were still fishermen bringing in the catch. The fish we ate was always really fresh.”
Traditionally, Americans have to work harder or travel farther for their fish and chips:
Susan King: “I didn't have GOOD fish and chips until my first trip to England in college. Then I was totally, uh, hooked. As it were. I have tried them in several places in England and Scotland, and wherever I can find them over here. The best I've ever had -- a small pub at the foot of the castle hill in Stirling, Scotland. Not only delicious battered fish and perfect chips, but the peas were garden fresh. Best ever. Not to mention great atmosphere.”
Fish and chips were a mainstay of the working class, and also a major part of British diet during the World Wars—in WWII, they were among the few foods that were never rationed.
I discovered this when I was researching my young adult novels, in which time traveling teens moved from Regency England to World War II. And they all loved fish and chips. The chippy in their town was called The Codfather.
Some Americans have yet to meet proper fish and chips:
“Cara/Andrea confesses that fish and chips is not part of her culinary experience, but after hearing the other Wenches wax poetic on its appeal, she promises to try it next time she is in England.”
"There is something about chippies that calls forth puns: A Salt and Battery, A Batter Plaice (plaice being a common British fish), Salmon to Watch Over Me, The Frying Scotsman, and Oh, My Cod. So you get not only food but entertainment.
Traditionally, fish and chips were served in a newspaper cone, and it’s said that the porosity of the newsprint was perfect for absorbing oil and preventing greasiness. Since newspaper inks might not have been as healthy, it’s not longer used, to the regret of some. Ideally, you’d eat them from a cone, piping hot and delicious on a cold, windy day, while walking home with your mates.
I like that it's now much more possible to get good fish and chips than used to be the case. They're not exactly health food, but in my research, I find that they're significantly lower in fat and calories than a lot of the other standard American fast foods
Here’s are some fun facts from a British Food website:
“Deep-fried fish in a crispy batter with fat golden chips is still one of Britain and Ireland's favorite meals. The love for them ranks alongside Roast Beef and Yorkshire Puddings, and the recently nominated Chicken Tikka Masala, as the English National Dish.”
Compared to other take-away foods Fish and chips have: 9.42 grams of fat per 100 grams. The average pizza has 11, Big Mac meal with medium fries has 12.1, Whopper meal with medium fries has 14.5, chicken korma 15.5 and doner kebab 16.2.
Fish and chips have 595 calories in the average portion - an average pizza has 871, Big Mac meal with medium fries has 888, Whopper meal with medium fries has 892, chicken korma 910 and doner kebab 924.
Statistics courtesy of Seafish UK.
Fish and chips are a good source of protein and vitamins, too. The discussion of fish and chips on the Wench loop sent half of us out to eat some. <G> Luckily, they’ve gotten easier to find in the US—there are a couple of Irish pubs near me that do a very decent job. So I went to the nearest pub for lunch. <G>
Have you had a chance to eat proper British-style fish and chips? If so, did you love or hate them? If not—would you like to give them a try?
Mary Jo
I had the best-ever fish and chips at the Tailend in St. Andrews, Scotland last May. I can't remember what kind of fish we ordered (there was a large selection, and I really don't know one fish from another, except to know to stay away from whitebait--ew) but it was so good. We're going to London next week, and you know what will be on my menu. :)Fun post!
Posted by: Maggie Robinson | Friday, October 05, 2012 at 04:21 AM
There's a fish and chips shop in Bennington, Vermont — at least it was there a couple of years ago — that has fantastically delicious fish and chips. I hope it will still be in place next time I get there.
Posted by: Jane O | Friday, October 05, 2012 at 05:02 AM
We have a Long John Silvers...does that count?
Posted by: Elizabeth Seckman | Friday, October 05, 2012 at 05:44 AM
I had fish 'n chips from a newspaper cone when in London one November. We ate them on the street as we walked and topped the meal off with hot roasted chestnuts, That was long ago. We never were in London in November again so don't know if they still sold the chestnuts. The next two times I was in London, I didn't see any one selling fish 'n chips on the street. Still good in a restaurant on a plate but lack sme of the essence of newspaper-- though any cardstock cone would have done.
Posted by: nancy | Friday, October 05, 2012 at 06:17 AM
Every Friday in Western New York is Fish Fry Day. Beer batter fried haddock with French fries, cole slaw, and potato salad. The Water Valley Inn in Hamburg, NY is my favorite place and the portion they give you for a full plate can feed three people. And they serve made-from-scratch pies that are to die for.
First time I ordered fish fry in Houston, I got cornmeal battered catfish. Yuck! I thought I was eating sand.
Posted by: MJ | Friday, October 05, 2012 at 07:32 AM
There's a superb fish and chip shop called 'Marcus's Fish Bar' in the small village of Ewyas Harold, South Herefordshire. The golden- battered fish just melts in the mouth and the chips are light and fluffy!
Posted by: Carol Cork | Friday, October 05, 2012 at 09:14 AM
I haven't had really good fish and chips since I was a child. My Dad used to drive over to Aldeburgh and get them from this little fish and chips shop. They were scrumptious! They used Guiness stout in their batter. And the chips were big, thick and had this crispy edge to them. It has been over forty years and I still remember them.
Posted by: LouisaCornell | Friday, October 05, 2012 at 10:39 AM
Maggie--
London! By all means, enjoy some great fish and chips on behalf of the Wenches. Have a great trip.
Posted by: Mary Jo Putney | Friday, October 05, 2012 at 11:45 AM
Jane )--
I suspect that the fish and chips shop is still there in Bennington. Not only do great fish and chips find enthusiastic clientele, but it's a college town. College students LOVE great, affordable food. *G*
Posted by: Mary Jo Putney | Friday, October 05, 2012 at 11:46 AM
Elizabeth--
I've not had Long John Silver's fish and chips, but if they're to die for, they most certainly would count. *G*
Posted by: Mary Jo Putney | Friday, October 05, 2012 at 11:47 AM
MJ--that's interesting about Fridays being fish fry days in Western New York! It sounds as if the dinners I used to go to have blossomed into a regional specialty. It makes me want to go visit my cousins there so I can have some. *G* Fried catfish can be good, but NOT the same!
Posted by: Mary Jo Putney | Friday, October 05, 2012 at 11:49 AM
Nancy--there is definitely something about hot street food in cold weather. I've not had fish and chips from a street vendor, but a could of autumns back, when Jo Beverley and I were in Rome for a conference, we shared sore terrific roast chestnuts from one of the many street vendors. A happy memory.
Posted by: Mary Jo Putney | Friday, October 05, 2012 at 11:52 AM
Carol--
I wonder if there's a website for "Fabulous places to get fisn and chips"? We're getting some great candidates for that here today!
Posted by: Mary Jo Putney | Friday, October 05, 2012 at 11:53 AM
Louisa--
Guiness in the beer batter! That sounds worth crossing the Atlantic for.
I'm getting hungry again even though I just had lunch!
Posted by: Mary Jo Putney | Friday, October 05, 2012 at 11:54 AM
Roast chestnuts are still sold on the streets after the weather gets cold.
Mary Jo, Crackpots is my fave Kinsale restaurant...I usually get the mussels, never tried the fish & chips but I don't doubt they were excellent. We just returned from time in the UK, where my spouse did his best to decimate the contents of various chippies.
Posted by: margaret evans porter | Friday, October 05, 2012 at 12:51 PM
Margaret--
We chose Crackpots for dinner mostly because it was half a block away from the Old Presbetyry (sp?), where we were staying. From what you say, we were particularly lucky in our choice! It's a lovely, cozy place, too.
My congratulations to your spouse and his noble attempt to decimate the chippies. *G*
Posted by: Mary Jo Putney | Friday, October 05, 2012 at 01:01 PM
My friends and I have a tradition of trying to find the best fish and chips in London. To date, the hands-down winner is The Black Friar Pub.
Posted by: Isobel Carr | Friday, October 05, 2012 at 01:54 PM
Isobel--
I googledl "Best Fish and Chips in London," and indeed there are listing of such. Wouldn't in be fun to work one's way through the list?
Posted by: Mary Jo Putney | Friday, October 05, 2012 at 02:31 PM
Oh yes! Guinness in the batter is phenomenal. We have two places near me who are traditional fryers. They bot offer a variety of fries, batters and fish and it's just amazing.
If it wasn't fried, I think I would eat it every day. Alas, my cholesterol...
Posted by: theo | Saturday, October 06, 2012 at 06:11 AM
When I was young and lived in New England, our version of fish and chips was fried clames and chips. I moved to England in 1998 and was really looking forward to real fish and chips. The place in in the town I lived was a disappointment, but we eventually found a good place and ate there a few times a month.
Posted by: Ella Quinn | Saturday, October 06, 2012 at 06:58 AM
Ella--
Sadly, not all fish and chips are created equal. I'm glad you found a good chippy not too far away. In Maryland, where I live, I guess the equivalent of your friend clams and chips would be the crab cake and chips. I guess the key factor here is fried sea food. *g*
Posted by: Mary Jo Putney | Saturday, October 06, 2012 at 07:18 AM
Theo--
That's interesting that different batters are offered as well as different fish. for that matter, diferent kinds of fries. I guess it must be to please the American love of variety. I'd feel compelled to work my way through all the varieties to find what I liked bet. But I'd start with that Guiness batter!
Posted by: Mary Jo Putney | Saturday, October 06, 2012 at 07:21 AM
There's a great fish fry place in Skaneateles, NY(Skaneateles being one of the Finger Lakes). Can't remember the name of it but you can spot it by the long line outside. You stand in line to order your food and eat it on picnic tables out in the back. I don't remember what kind of fish I ate, but I am sure the menu includes some freshwater fish.
I'm also adding The Water Valley Inn that MJ mentioned to my bucket list!
Posted by: Karin | Saturday, October 06, 2012 at 03:10 PM
Karin--
I know Skaneateles! I went to college in Syracuse so I visted several times. It's a lovely town in a beautiful area. I wonder if they had the fish fry place then..?
Probably not, alas!
Posted by: Mary Jo Putney | Saturday, October 06, 2012 at 05:15 PM
During the war, fish and chips may not have been rationed, but it often was not available at all. My father remembers when a rumour went around that the the shop was going to be open and a long line formed. When he got to the front of the line, he asked what kind of fish it was. The man in the shop was incredulous. He was lucky to have fish at all. If my father didn't want the fish, there were plenty of others who did. Why spoil the fun asking daft questions?
Posted by: HB | Saturday, October 06, 2012 at 07:54 PM
HB--
You're quite right, of course--from what I've read, news that a chippy had fish in would create those long lines. And most people wouldn't ask what kind of fish it was!
Posted by: Mary Jo Putney | Sunday, October 07, 2012 at 05:38 PM
Interesting. In a recent episode of Supersizers go Victorian, they mention that fried fish originated with the Jewish population who fried their fish so that they could eat it on the Sabbath. I just got back from London, and ate fish & chips in several pubs including the Victoria in Oxford.
Posted by: Elizabeth Kerri Mahon | Thursday, October 11, 2012 at 12:34 PM
Elizabeth--
I've not heard of Victorian Supersizers (?!!), but I have read that the inventor of deep fried fish was indeed a Jewish Londoner. However, since Lancashire also has claims to inventing fish and chips, I figured it was better not to go so deeply into the delicious but murky history. *G*
Posted by: Mary Jo Putney | Thursday, October 11, 2012 at 12:41 PM
Nope, cornmeal battered catfish is not Fish N Chips, you are too far south. It's an acquired taste, as is having grits, plain or cheese,as a side! So is smoked mullet with hush puppies. Beer-battered fish has always been a favorite and I can remember my grandad bringing a fish sandwich from a local saloon when he picked me up from boarding school on Friday. (School Friday lunches were inedible.) We all have a local specialty, everything has to be as fresh as possible, and memory makes everything taste better than it really was!
Posted by: Artemisia | Thursday, October 11, 2012 at 04:08 PM
In Arizona, the ocean is nowhere to be seen. I grew up on frozen fish sticks. Not appetizing. In London, I'm afraid my growing up years colored by fish and chips experience. I did however develop an insane appreciation for salt and vinegar chips. It was years before I could find them after I returned home. Closest I come to fish now is New Zealand wild Blue Hake compliments of the local Schwan's. Wish I could find someplace around here, but it would have to be fish flown in fresh. Steak ends up being cheaper. I feel so deprived reading about all these yummy places.
Posted by: Judy | Thursday, October 11, 2012 at 04:21 PM
Artemesia--
Memory does make foods taste better--but beer battered fish stands very well on its own!
Posted by: Mary Jo Putney | Monday, October 15, 2012 at 09:31 AM
Judy--
A sad thing about travel is that all places have wonderful local specialities that are hard or impossible to find elsewhere!
Posted by: Mary Jo Putney | Monday, October 15, 2012 at 09:33 AM