Basking in Bermuda

by Mary Jo

Getting married was a lot of fun, but we knew it would be seriously exhausting.  So where would be good to escape for a few days?  Something romantic, but easy.  We considered a lovely B&B we’d visited in West Virginia, but that didn’t seem quite right.

Then inspiration struck:  Bermuda!  It’s a two hour direct flight from Baltimore, suitably exotic and romantic, and I’ve always wanted to visit.  However, it’s too far north (the same latitude as North Carolina) to be really warm for those winter breaks one takes when in dire need of a dose of sunshine, so I’d never made it there. 

April would be a perfect time to visit, and the Mayhem Consultant agreed.  Bermuda is as beautiful as its reputation, with pink sand beaches (well, not THAT pink) and turquoise seas.  It’s really an archipelago of 181 islands (more or less), some connected by bridges to form the mainland.  There are less than 21 square miles of area, so this is a small place. 

But Bermuda had a LOT of history.  There was no indigenous population.  The first known European to land was the Spanish sea captain Juan de Bermudez, whose name was given to the island.  Ten years later he came by the island again and released a dozen pigs and sows, for the benefit of future shipwrecked mariners.

It worked, too!  The first British settlers came in 1609, when the Sea Venture, part of a flotilla of supply ships heading toward the struggling Virginia colony, was run aground on the reefs during a storm to save it from sinking.  All 150 passengers and a dog made it safely to shore.  Most later went on to Virginia, but while on Bermuda, they were grateful for the pigs!  And Britain claimed Bermuda for the Empire.

Honorary Word Wench Kathryn Johnson wrote a wonderful, werll-researched book inspired by the wreck of the SEA VENTURE called The Gentleman Poet. 

With little land for agriculture. Bermuda became a shipbuilding and sailing center, and for quite some time controlled much of the world’s salt trade.  After the American Revolution and the loss of British military bases in the new USA, the Royal Navy began building forts and defenses on Bermuda. 

Situated midway between the British colonies in Canada and the Caribbean, the island became Britain’s primary naval installation guarding the western Atlantic shipping lanes.  The attacks on Washington and Baltimore during the War of 1812 were launched from Bermuda.  The Royal Dockyards were the hub of all this naval activity, and are now a very pleasant tourist destination with shops, museums. and a dolphin pool. 

Bermuda also had masses of forts: 90 have been built since 1609! My favorite was Fort St. Catherine, which looks modest above ground, but has many levels of tunnels and arsenals below.  It’s a great museum,.  Plus, hidden behind a pillar between artillery placements was a metal tray with cat food.  <g>  We saw two cats, and I suspect there were more. 

No shots were ever fired in anger from these forts, but in 1941, there was an invasion of sorts when the American military arrived to update and fortify the artillery for the duration of WWII.  Most of the military installations are gone now, but their artifacts remain.

Because of its small size, Bermuda has always had to husband its resources carefully.  For example, the only source of fresh water is rainfall, so there are reservoirs under just about every building on the island.  Roofs are not only designed to channel rain into the reservoirs, but they’re painted with a lime mixture that helps purify the water.

It’s almost impossible for outsiders to buy land in Bermuda unless they’re in the mega-rich category, like Mayor Micheal Bloomberg.  Tourists can’t rent cars, either.  Instead, there is a delightful bus system consisting of pink buses with blue trim.  (The colors of Bermuda.) 

Bus stops are painted pink for buses heading toward Hamilton, the capital, or blue for buses heading away from Hamilton.  There are also plenty of taxis that include a site seeing rate on their rate cards.

We were fortunate to be referred to a driver by friends who’d been escorted around the island by him.  He was a lovely fellow, and each day he’d come at 10:00 am and take us to a different area, then drop us off for lunch and take us back to our hotel later. (As an overseas British territory, the fish and chips were excellent!)

Bermuda is a rich tapestry of an island, both beautiful and sophisticated.  My favorite place was the oldest city, St. George’s, founded in 1612 under the name New London.  It’s charming and historical, with the beautiful church of St. George on a hill overlooking the town and the harbor.

The vital location has always made Bermuda busy and prosperous.  These days, the most profitable business is off-shore banking, with tourism in second place.  I had no money to launder, but the tourism side of the island is great.  <G>

Bermuda is as expensive as its reputation, though!  A saying we heard a couple of times was, “Know how to become a millionaire in Bermuda?  Go there as a multi-millionaire.” <G>

 But it was a lovely place for a honeymoon, a delicious blend of Britishness and history and island culture. 

Have you ever visited Bermuda?  If so, how did you like it?  And if not—would you like to??

Mary Jo, who wants to go back!

Comments

[Maggie Robinson]

Lovely! We're going on a cruise to Bermuda in September from Boston. Please cross your fingers we don't hit any hurricanes. I have never been and have always wanted to go, and after reading this post am even more anxious. I do remember girls in college though who went for spring break and came back frozen and tanless. They weren't there for the history. ;)

[Diane Sallans]

I've always wanted to go to Bermuda, but haven't made it yet.

[Mary Jo Putney]

LOL about the college break girls, Maggie. Bermuda has great beaches and one can bask in summer. but it is NOT the Caribbean! Not the best of spring break places--unless one like history.

As a historical writer, You'll love it. Do try to visit St. George's and the St. George church. It's at the east end of the island, while I understand most cruise ships moor on the west end, by the Docklands complex. Which is nice, but more touristy. If you want a taxi driver for taking you around for a while, e-mail me privately and I'll tell you more about the system.

As for hurricanes--Bermuda is in the path of a lot of them, but I'm pretty sure a cruise ship doesn't drive into anything that can be avoided! Have fun--

[Mary Jo Putney]

Diane, I do hope you make it to Bermuda someday. If you're like me and don't like hot, humid weather, spring and autumn are probably best. If you're a beach basker, summer is warm and humid,like the Carolinas.

The history is good old year round. *g*

[Leah Weller]

I went there in '93 and had a wonderful time! I have always wanted to go back. I found such peace there. The place we stayed at in Southampton Parish is no longer open ( Sonesta Beach Resort) but it had three private beaches and was simply amazing! We did the Crystal Caves, loved St. George, visited Ft. St. Catherine, Fort Hamilton, and the Maritime Museum, along with some other hot spots there. I think my favorite thing was taking a horseback ride on the beaches. The bus system was excellent and we even rented scooters one day and just traveled to all the beaches. One up at the northern end of the islands had a natural arch which I think was destroyed in one of the hurricanes in recent years, which saddened me. We went in March, which is their off season, so we had most places to ourselves when we visited. Still warm enough to swim, which I did but very warily because of those Portuguese man o' war. We stayed for a week and I still didn't get to each place that I wanted to visit. Our resort was right below the Gibbs Hill Lighthouse and that was a sight to see from the top. Absolutely beautiful! Your post today brought a smile to my face and a longing to go back soon. I'm glad you were able to visit and had such an enjoyable time. It really is a paradise. :)

[Mary Jo Putney]

What a fabulous vacation, Leah! We were only there for four days so we didn't see as much, but we did try. We did visit the Gibbs Hill Lighthouse, and being under it would be fabulous!

I hope you get to visit again--

[chaussures converse]

Pel que fa als huracans - Bermuda es troba en el camí de molts d'ells, però estic bastant segur que un vaixell de creuer no condueix a res que es pot evitar! Diverteix-te

[Mary Jo Putney]

Chaussures converse--

You're right about the many hurricanes! Apparently that's because Bermuda is in the Gulf Stream, which is a Hurricane Highway.

Luckily, weather satellites mean that cruise ships can avoid them!

And using Google Translator:

Vous avez raison sur les nombreux ouragans! Apparemment, c'est parce que les Bermudes se trouve dans le Gulf Stream, qui est une autoroute ouragan.

Heureusement, les satellites météorologiques signifie que les navires de croisière peuvent les éviter!

[Cara Elliott/Andrea Penrose]

Mary Jo, my very first trip without my parents was to Bermuda, My best friend's neighbor invited us (two fourteen-year-olds) to come visit. It was very exciting, and I loved the island! Since then, I've been back for or five times and really enjoy poking around the historical sites and riding motor bikes along the lovely pink beaches shores. There a wonderful quiet, charming civility to the place which you don't find many places these t days. The pace is slower, the mood tranquil—it's hard not to relax and unwind. (There are some VERY good golf courses on the island too. Mid Ocean Club is one of the Top Ten in the world.)

[Mary Jo Putney]

Cara/Andrea, what a GREAT place for your first vacation without your parents! It set a standard that has surely been hard to match. *G* You're so right about the calm and civility.

[Trish Sullivan]

We've been to Bermuda several times over the last 15 years and have always had a wonderful time. From Boston it's a quick 2 hr flight and we like not losing a whole day to travel. Frequently, we'd stay only 4 or nights but still came home rested and rejuvenated. We did take the Boston to Bermuda cruise with family members once and although the "to" sail was a very stormy crossing, the trip overall was a great success... (sharing our love of this island with three little granddaughters and their parents). We've gotten some great vacation deals in the past and have learned how to do it "cheaper" by eating where the locals eat and enjoying many places on the island that are free to visitors. Reading your post and all the comments made me nostalgic to get back for another visit! Maybe this year!