A Wee Tipple on the Lore of Single Malt Scotch

Cara/Andrea here,
  As some of you may know, I have, by virtue of default, I think, been elected Wench Team Captain of Sports and Spirits (er, no, no—not the rah-rah kind, the intoxicating kind.) This past summer, I laced on my spikes and took you on a walk through the fairways of golf history. But now, as the winter pervades the air here in the Northeast and the  pace slows to celebrate the holidays with family and friends, it seems the perfect time to turn to golf’s 19th hole (for all you non-golfers, that’s the bar) and take a wee tipple into the origins and traditions of Scotland’s national drink—single malt whisky.

Uisge Beatha
There’s a great Gaelic bruhahha over who actually invented whisky. Most historians agree it was probably the Irish, as there are 12th century documents making reference to it.  So the Scots merely claim that they perfected the spirit. The earliest mention of distilling in Scotland dates from 1494, when an official record notes that a certain Friar John Cor of Dunfermline purchased malt to make “acquavitae’—which is Latin for water of life.

In Gaelic, the phrase is “uisge beatha” . . . which somehow turned into “whisky” in English. (No doubt after the speaker had imbibed several glasses of the brew.)  Note that yet another brangling between the Scots and the Irish occurred over spelling. In Scotland, it’s always “whisky” while in Ireland and the rest of the world it’s “whiskey.”

What IS Whisky?

Which begs the question of what exactly IS whisky. I’m glad you asked. Many countries make whiskey, but what we’re going to talk about here is “scotch” in its  purest form. To begin with, single malt (We’ll get to that term later) whisky is made from barley—-and only barley. Golden Promise is the the most popular variety, but each individual distillery has its favorite, depending on local growing conditions..

Earth, Wind & Fire
The grain is soaked in water and allowed to germinate, forming “malt.” (A grain is said to be malted when its core starches covert to sugar.) This malt is then dried over heat—usually oven a peat fire—and ground to a coarse grist, Once again it’s soaked in hot water and yeast is added to ferment it. The resulting alcoholic slush is distilling in pot-shaped copper stills. (Alcohol boils at a lower temperature than water, so its essence can be concentrated and collected as . . . uisge beatha.

Heart of Oak
Scottish law specifies that “real” scotch must be aged in wooden casks for a minimum of three years within Scotland, but many are, like fine wine, aged for considerably longer. The only wood allowed is oak, and the preferred species are Quercus alba (White American oak) and Quercus robur (European oak.) Single malt distilleries traditionally usually use old sherry or bourbon casks, as the residue of those spirits is said to impart a subtle flavoring to the whisky.

The Singles Bar
Now that we have the basics down, let’s move on to the fine points. The term “single malt” means that the whisky has to come from the same distillery. (If you look on a label and see “Blended Scotch whisky” that means it a mix of a variety of brews from around the country.) Most distilleries are small because of the hand crafting involved, and their products are very distinctive because of the local ingredients. Water, peat, barley—even the surrounding rocks—affect the taste. On the other hand, blended whisky usually aims to create a uniform flavor from batch to batch.

The Art of Malt
Single malt distillers think of themselves as artists, creating a unique work through a magical combination of ingredients, fermentation and aging. All the steps require tweaking and special techniques, which they jealously guard.  Now, you be asking, how different can it be? The answer is—very!

Scotland is a country of varied terrain and microclimates. The coast is flavored by brine and seaweed, the Highlands by granite and peat. Speyside is known for its elegance and refined smokiness while the wind-lashed whisky island of Islay produces sturdy, strong, iodine-tinged brews. Some people are adamant that the rock and soil over which the local water flows influences the taste—marshy land imparts a grassy taste while the sandstone of the northeast creates a firm-bodied whisky.

In other words, whisky has much in common with wine, where terroir and temperature affect the regional vintages. I never knew that until I visited Scotland and attended a single malt tasting. It was fun to sample a sip from the different regions—there are close to 200 single malt distilleries!—and the difference among them really is amazing. (Not that I sampled 200. I take my research seriously, but not that seriously. Hey, I have to actually write, not snooze.)

Wee Tipples
The oldest of the modern distilleries date back to the early 1700’s. (Some random facts: Justerini & Justerini, the legendary London wine merchants, first sold whisky in 1779. John Dewar, who started his business in 1806, was the first person to sell whisky in bottles.) The phylloxera blight, which destroyed so many French vineyards in the late 1800’s, helped popularize the spirit outside of Scotland, for along with wine, much of the cognac production was disrupted and people turned to whisky as an alternative.  Today, of course, it is one of the world’s classic spirits, sipped neat or with just a single drop of water to stir the flavors. (Like fine wines, single malts are never served “on the rocks.”)

Scotch Hot Toddy:
Take a glass and add a spoonful of sugar and a spoonful of honey (Scottish heather honey would be best), add a shot of whisky, and fill the glass with very hot or boiling water.

Even better, here’s a recipe for a cake flavored with whisky:

Chocolate Whisky Bundt Cake
Makes 12 to 14 servings

1 cup unsweetened cocoa powder (not Dutch-process) plus 3 T for dusting pan
1 1/2 cups brewed coffee
1/2 cup Scotch whisky
2 sticks unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch pieces
2 cups sugar
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla

1.  Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 325ºF. Butter 3 qt. (10”) bundt pan well, then dust with 3 tablespoons cocoa powder, knocking out excess.
2.  Heat coffee, whisky, butter, and remaining cup cocoa powder in a 3-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat, whisking, until butter is melted. Remove from heat, then add sugar and whisk until dissolved, about 1 minute. Transfer mixture to a large bowl and cool 5 minutes.
3.  While chocolate mixture cools, whisk together flour, baking soda, and salt in a bowl. Whisk together eggs and vanilla in a small bowl, then whisk into cooled chocolate mixture until combined well. Add flour mixture and whisk until just combined (batter will be thin and bubbly). Pour batter into bundt pan and bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 40 to 50 minutes.
4.  Cool cake completely in pan on a rack, about 2 hours. Loosen cake from pan using tip of a dinner knife, then invert rack over pan and turn cake out onto rack.

I have to admit, I’m not much of a single malt whisky drinker, though once in a while, on a cold winter night, I do sip a glass of Glenmorangie or Balvenie. Do you enjoy a glass of scotch and if so, do you have a favorite single malts? If you don’t drink it, what image comes to mind when you hear the word? I always think of Cary Grant in one of those swanky ‘30s comedies when I think of whisky.

How about any other great whisky recipes?  Please feel free to share—-after all, we’re got lots of holiday baking to do!

Comments

[Saffronrose]

Very nice into to singlemalt whisky. I don't care about the aged-three-years! If it's not ten yet, it's too young, unless it's the Welsh whisky Penderyn. At five years only, it is as smooth as many Scots malts aged 20 or older. We were very surprised by it.

I am lucky enough to have about a dozen "teens" and a handful of 25+yr singlemalts. For some reason, they all seem to be from Islay--can't imagine how that happened!

The Highland and Speyside malts seem to garner the greatest popularity--and there certainly are a score of them--but I started with Glenfiddich one misty February evening in 1973, after I'd found the piper I'd been hearing in the semi-wild area known as The Wash, at Pomona College. It was a physics prof who piped, and then offered me a dram and a chat. Later that year, I was handed a tot of Laphroaig, and I never looked at another Speyside again. Laphroaig is a love it/hate it malt, as are many Islay malts.

At a well-organized tasting, such as the ones that the Malt Advocate Magazine folks hold, there will be about 200 malts to sample--three to ten "expressions" each distiller or negociat (e.g., Signatory). My advice is to taste the oldest, or the hard to find expressions. It's wretched to invest over $100 on a bottle you find you don't care for.

A few years ago, I went to one of the Malt Advocate tasting sprees. They advise you to take public transport, provide a designated driver (but what is the entrance fee for them? I wouldn't pay $130 to not drink, that's for sure!), or stay nearby. We chose to stay three blocks away.

I promise you, I asked for short pours, took tiny sips, ate the snacks provided, and was picky about what I tasted. I still managed to consume enough that I probably made a fool of myself in front of John Campbell, Laphroaig's Distillery
Manager, as I was saying thank you for bringing such wonderful malts, saying I was a Friend of Laphroaig, and whatever else I babbled. It was also rather wobbly walking back to the hotel.

So, Cara/Andrea (the rest of you can respond, also), which is your favorite malt? Mine is Laphroaig 30, the oldest I've had yet, but am partial to other Islay malts: Ardbeg, Bruichladdich, Bunnahabhain, and Lagavulin. Didn't care for Caol Ila--just didn't stand out enough. Kilchoman is too new (2004) to have anything to taste as yet. Don't think I've ever tried Ports Charlotte or Ellen. Bowmore was the first malt my husband ever tried, after teasing me for years about my "alcoholic bog water", and his second thought, following hard on the heels of "Hey, this is good", was "She's never going to let me live this down".

I think I've had blended *once*. It's good enough for shutting my cough down--allergic to codeine/vicodin--but it takes a full cup. At least I'm in bed when I'm drinking it! No hangover yet, thanks.

[Cara Elliott/Andrea Penrose]

Saffronrose, thank you so much for such a wonderful comment! I should turn the blog pen over to you, for you clearly are the "expert."

I've done a few tasting in Scotland (as you say, do TINY sips) One of my favorite single malts was Cardhu, which isn't made anymore. I do like Balvenie 25 yr old. The Islay malts are a little strong and peaty for me. I prefer the lighter, sweeter malts, but I think the true cognescenti agree with you.

Though I'm not a Scotch drinker, I appreciate the craft of single malts and if I do tipple, it's not with a blended scotch. Why not drink the best!

[anne gracie]

Lovely post, Andrea/Cara. I must confess I do "tak a wee dram" every now and then, as my dad and grandad did before me, though I don't add water to it as they did -- instead, I commit sacrilege by adding ice. ;) I still have several bottles of fabulous Scotch that Dad gave me.

I'd love to do a tour of the distilleries one day.

But I have to differ on this: In Scotland, it’s always “whisky” while in Ireland and the rest of the world it’s “whiskey.”
In Australia, Scotch is always spelt whisky and Irish whiskey takes the extra e, as does American whiskey.

[Cara Elliott/Andrea Penrose]

Thank you for the correction, Anne! Clearly you Aussies know a good tradition when you see it!

[Susan/DC]

From Joanna's blog about tea on Monday to Cara/Andrea's blog about whisk(e)y on Wednesday, you've now covered two of the major beverages that can be used to enable us to face most of the situations that Life can throw at us. I'm most definitely not a whisky connoisseur, but when my husband and I visited Edinburgh a few years ago we went to a tasting, which made me much more appreciative.

And to Saffronrose, thank you for the information. I'll look for some of your recommendations as gifts for my husband, who does like his wee drop of the beverage at the end of a long day. At the moment I have a nasty head cold, and I also look forward to trying your remedy for the accompanying cough (I'll make sure I'm lying down at the time).

[Cara Elliott/Andrea Penrose]

Glad you enjoyed the post, Susan! As you can see, Joanna is way more virtuous than me, LOL.
And I second the thanks to Saffronrose for all the info. I would definitely follow her recommendations.

Hope the toddy works its magic on your hubby!

[Louis]

The things I didn't know about Whisky/Whiskey. Thank You.

Still there is nothing like a glass of it to sip.

[dalerobertweese]

Aberlour is my favorite. I have said it tastes like a wet sheep, which I mean completely as a compliment but nobody ever seems to understand that. I have never licked a wet sheep! Not even after several glasses. Okay it tastes like a wet sheep smells, is that better? No? Well if you are a whisky drinker I challenge you to taste it, and give a better description.

Here in the US, the word is spelled whisky on all the bottles of Scotch, single malt or blended, even those bottled here. The 'e' is used for all other labels.

[Cara Elliott/Andrea Penrose]

I agree, Louis!

[LouisaCornell]

I have to confess that I am a teetotaler. Never had a sip of alcohol in my 52 years. With a Cherokee/Creek mother and a 3/4 Welsh - 1/4 English father who came from a family of SERIOUS drinkers (when a Budweiser truck shows up at your family reunions you KNOW said family is devoted to their beer!)and being a musician, very hedonistic by nature - I decided at an early age not to chance it! However, when I sell my first book I will break my streak with a bottle of champagne!

My brother, however, is whisky drinker on occasion. He was fortunate enough to travel to Ireland on business and visited several distilleries. I have no idea which is his favorite, but he has said he prefers Scotch whisky's to Irish. I will have to tell him about the Welsh varieties. We are very proud of our Welsh heritage.

Another post for my research notebook. Soon the Wenches will have their own shelf of research materials in my research book case!

[Cara Elliott/Andrea Penrose]

LOL, Dalerobertweese! I've tasted Aberlour and it's a little strong for me. Wet sheep is a wonderful description! I love to read tasting notes for wine and whisky, as they are so . . . imaginative. I know what you—wet grass and leaves, a musty undertone. Maybe the whisky distiller should hire you as their copywriter!

[Cara Elliott/Andrea Penrose]

Louisa, a sip of champagne is a lovely way to celebrate a special moment. (And a book sale would definitely qualify as that!) I enjoy wine and spirits in moderation, of course. It's a nice treat.

I'm not familiar with Irish or Welsh whiskeys, but I think aficianados do say the Scottish brews are the gold standard.

So glad you enjoy our meanders through history. I learn so much from my fellow Wenches too!

[Jenny]

Hi Cara/Andrea. I'm not much of a whisky/whiskey drinker, but I am going to have a go at the cake recipe you have included. Looks great.

[Cara Elliott/Andrea Penrose]

Let me know how you like it, Jenny. It should be a nice holiday dessert!

[Helen]

Great post

I don't drink a lot and I don't drink it straight but if I have a drink besides a wine or champagne I do drink scotch and coke and that is probably not single malt LOL.
Fasinating learning about whisky I don't have any reciepes but I do love both of yours I must try them

have Fun
Helen

[Nicola Cornick]

Another fabulous post, Cara/Andrea. I'm the tea drinker in this house (so thank you for your tea post, Joanna!) whilst my Scots husband is the whisky drinker. His favourite is The Balvenie. I bought him a bottle the same age as he was for a significant birthday!

[Patricia Rice]

I've been out of touch this past week and came home to read all these fabulous wenchly posts and now I must go hide under the bed. You all know so much! How do you do it?

I live in St Louis which is German beer country. Lots of independent breweries. And if the Irish drink Scotch here, I don't know about it. I'm with Nicola on the tea drinking. But ignorance isn't always bliss so now I have a compendium of drinking to follow. "G"

[maryjoputney]

Cara Andrea, Glenmorangie is the single malt of choice around here, too. One night when we were having dinner in Inverness, the Mayhem Consultant asked the waitress for a recommendation, since the wall with about 300 different bottles of whisky was more than a little overwhelming. *g*

He tasted it, and never looked back, though occasional others like Laphroigh and Bowmore and Glenfiddich have passed through the liquor closet here.

I'm not much for spirits, but even I'll admit that the Glenmorangie is lovely smooth stuff. And when I lived in England, I bought a couple of barrels of raw whiskey to hold for aging. This gives cash flow to the distillery, and then when it's aged for some years, they buy it back. It made a decent, and certainly exotic, investment. *g*

The Mayhem Consultant says that Jameson is a very, very smooth Irish whiskey. But in the summers, he goes English and drink gin and tonics.

[ValerieL.]

I've always been partial to single malts but never had a real favorite until this summer. That's when I had Bruichladdich for the first time and fell in love. The closest I can come to pronouncing it is Brew-ce-laddie, and it is so smooth, so fine a sip. I bought it to celebrate a dear friend beating lung cancer and we celebrated in stlye together. I have had Tullamore Dew, an Irish whiskey, and enjoyed it too, but the Scots are the masters. Thanks for a fun read.

[Carol Luciano]

I love these posts with all this info. And I love the cake recipe :)
I'm a tea drinker I'm afraid.
Carol L
Lucky4750@aol.com